When it comes to fly fishing, the choice of equipment can make or break your experience on the water. And when it comes to fly rods, graphite has long been touted as the go-to material for its strength and durability. But now, there's something even better: graphite fly rods that offer not only strength but also sensitivity, giving anglers a superior fishing experience.
In this article, we'll explore the newfound superiority of graphite fly rods and why they should be at the top of every angler's wish list. We'll delve into the characteristics that make graphite rods stand out, such as their lightweight construction, exceptional response, and unparalleled precision.
But what sets these graphite fly rods apart from their predecessors? It's their ability to transmit even the slightest nibble or movement from a fish, allowing anglers to detect bites with remarkable sensitivity. This sensitivity translates into increased hook-up rates and more enjoyable fishing sessions.
Join us as we dive into the world of graphite fly rods and discover how this innovation is shaping the future of fly fishing. Get ready to experience a level of performance and sensitivity you never thought possible.
Graphite fly rods offer numerous advantages over other materials, making them the preferred choice for many anglers. One of the key advantages is their lightweight construction. Compared to bamboo or fiberglass rods, graphite rods are significantly lighter, allowing anglers to cast with less effort and fatigue.
Another advantage of graphite fly rods is their exceptional response. The inherent stiffness of graphite allows for fast action and quick recovery, enabling anglers to cast longer distances with ease. This responsiveness is particularly beneficial when dealing with windy conditions or when targeting elusive fish species that require precise presentations.
Additionally, graphite fly rods offer unparalleled precision. The sensitivity of these rods allows anglers to make subtle adjustments in their casting technique, resulting in more accurate and controlled casts. This precision becomes crucial when targeting specific areas or when presenting flies to finicky fish.
Graphite fly rods are built using advanced manufacturing techniques and cutting-edge materials. The construction starts with high-quality graphite blanks, which are made by layering carbon fibers in a precise orientation. The graphite blanks are then coated with a protective resin, which enhances their strength and durability.
The manufacturing process of graphite fly rods also involves the use of mandrels, which are cylindrical molds that determine the shape and taper of the rod. By using different mandrels, manufacturers can create rods with varying actions, allowing anglers to choose a rod that suits their fishing style.
To further enhance performance, some graphite fly rods feature advanced technologies such as multi-modulus construction. This technology combines different graphite materials with varying stiffness, resulting in rods that offer a balanced blend of power and sensitivity.
Rod action refers to how much the rod bends during casting and fighting a fish. In general, graphite fly rods are available in three main actions: fast, medium, and slow. Fast-action rods are stiff and bend mostly in the tip section, providing increased casting distance and accuracy. Medium-action rods offer a balance between power and flexibility, making them versatile for various fishing scenarios. Slow-action rods bend throughout their length, providing a more delicate presentation and a forgiving feel.
The sensitivity of a fly rod is closely related to its action. Graphite fly rods, particularly fast-action ones, excel in transmitting vibrations and movements from the line to the angler's hand. This sensitivity enables anglers to detect even the faintest bites or subtle movements of the fly, giving them a distinct advantage when targeting wary fish.
While graphite fly rods have gained popularity in recent years, it's important to acknowledge the merits of other materials such as fiberglass and bamboo. Fiberglass rods offer a slower action and a more relaxed casting feel, making them suitable for anglers who prioritize a smooth and leisurely fishing experience. On the other hand, bamboo rods are known for their classic aesthetics and traditional craftsmanship, attracting anglers who appreciate the nostalgia and artistry associated with fly fishing.
However, when it comes to performance, graphite fly rods outshine both fiberglass and bamboo rods. The lightweight and responsive nature of graphite allow for effortless casting and precise fly presentations. Additionally, the sensitivity of graphite rods gives anglers an edge in detecting subtle strikes, resulting in improved hook-up rates and overall fishing success.
Choosing the right graphite fly rod involves considering various factors such as fishing location, target species, and personal fishing style. For small streams and delicate presentations, a slow-action rod would be a suitable choice. Anglers who frequently fish in windy conditions or target larger species may prefer a fast-action rod for its power and long-distance casting ability. Medium-action rods offer versatility and can handle a wide range of fishing scenarios.
It's also important to consider the rod weight. Lighter rods are generally more enjoyable to cast for extended periods, while heavier rods provide additional power for fighting larger fish. The length of the rod should also be taken into account, with longer rods offering increased line control and leverage, and shorter rods providing enhanced maneuverability in tight spaces.
To ensure the longevity and optimal performance of graphite fly rods, proper maintenance and care are essential. After each fishing session, it's important to clean the rod and reel with freshwater to remove any salt or debris. Inspecting the rod for any signs of damage or wear is also crucial, as any defects can affect its performance.
Fly Rod Maintenance and Care Tips:
Cleaning:
The first step in maintaining your graphite fly fishing rod is to keep it clean. After each fishing trip, rinse the rod with freshwater to remove any saltwater, sand, or dirt. Use a soft cloth or sponge to wipe down the rod's surface, including the guides and reel seat. Avoid using abrasive materials that could scratch the rod.
Reel Seat and Handle:
Pay special attention to the reel seat and handle. These are the areas where you have the most contact. Clean the handle with mild soap and water, and wipe it dry with a clean cloth. Inspect the reel seat for any debris that may interfere with reel placement.
Guides and Line:
Check the rod guides for any nicks, cracks, or damage. Damaged guides can cause your fishing line to fray or break. If you notice any issues, consider getting them repaired or replaced by a professional rod builder or repair shop.
Storage:
Proper storage is crucial for maintaining the integrity of your graphite fly fishing rod. Store it in a protective rod tube or a padded rod case to prevent accidental damage. Avoid leaning the rod against hard surfaces or leaving it in direct sunlight for extended periods, as this can cause damage to the rod's finish.
Reel Maintenance:
Regularly clean and maintain your fly reel, as it is an integral part of your setup. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for cleaning and lubricating the reel. A well-maintained reel ensures smooth casting and retrieval.
Avoid Overloading:
One common mistake anglers make is overloading their graphite fly rods. Make sure to use the appropriate fly line and leader for your rod's weight and action. Overloading can lead to rod damage and decreased performance.
Check for Damage:
Before every fishing trip, inspect your rod for any signs of damage or stress fractures. Gently flex the rod to check for weak spots. If you notice any issues, it's best to address them before heading out on the water.
Transport Carefully:
When transporting your rod, use a protective case or tube to prevent accidental damage during transit. Secure it properly to your vehicle or backpack to avoid any accidents.
Protecting the rod from extreme temperatures and harsh environments is important. Storing the rod in a protective rod tube or sleeve when not in use can prevent accidental breakage or damage. Additionally, avoiding excessive bending or stress on the rod during transportation or storage can help maintain its integrity.
With numerous brands and models available on the market, choosing the right graphite fly rod can be overwhelming. However, several brands have established a reputation for producing high-quality graphite fly rods.
One such brand is XYZ Fly Rods, renowned for their innovative designs and exceptional performance. Their XYZ Pro series offers a wide range of rods suitable for various fishing styles and conditions. Another reputable brand is ABC Fly Rods, known for their attention to detail and craftsmanship. Their ABC Elite series features rods that combine power, sensitivity, and durability.
It's important to research and read reviews to find the best graphite fly rod that suits your specific needs and preferences. Consulting with experienced anglers or visiting a local fly shop can also provide valuable insights and recommendations.
To maximize your performance with graphite fly rods, there are several tips and techniques to keep in mind. First and foremost, practice your casting technique regularly. The responsiveness of graphite rods allows for precise and controlled casts, but it requires practice to perfect your timing and accuracy.
Experimenting with different fly lines and leaders can also enhance your performance. A weight-forward fly line paired with a suitable leader can optimize your casting distance and presentation. Additionally, learning how to properly mend and control the line during drifts can significantly improve your success in fooling fish.
Lastly, understanding the behavior and feeding patterns of the target species can help you choose the right flies and presentation techniques. Observing the water, studying insect hatches, and experimenting with various retrieves can increase your chances of enticing strikes.
In conclusion, graphite fly rods have revolutionized the world of fly fishing with their superior performance and sensitivity. Their lightweight construction, exceptional response, and unparalleled precision make them the preferred choice for anglers seeking an enhanced fishing experience.
Compared to other materials such as fiberglass and bamboo, graphite fly rods offer distinct advantages in terms of casting distance, accuracy, and sensitivity. The ability to transmit even the most subtle movements of a fish allows anglers to detect bites with remarkable precision, resulting in increased hook-up rates and more enjoyable fishing sessions.
When choosing a graphite fly rod, consider factors such as fishing location, target species, personal fishing style, and rod weight. Proper maintenance and care are crucial to ensuring the longevity and optimal performance of the rod. Researching and consulting with experienced anglers or local fly shops can help you find the perfect graphite fly rod for your needs.
By maximizing your casting technique, experimenting with different lines and leaders, and understanding the behavior of the target species, you can fully embrace the superior performance of graphite fly rods and take your fly fishing to new heights. Get ready to experience the strength and sensitivity that only graphite fly rods can offer. Happy fishing!
]]>Are you an avid fly angler who wants to make sure your fly reels last a lifetime? Look no further! In this article, we will share expert tips and techniques to help you maintain and extend the lifespan of your beloved reels. Whether you're a beginner or a seasoned angler, taking proper care of your equipment is essential for optimal performance on the water.
From cleaning and lubricating to protecting against corrosion, our experts have covered it all. We’ll guide you through the step-by-step process of maintaining your fly reels, ensuring they remain in top-notch condition for years to come. With our expert advice, you can confidently hit the water, knowing your reels are ready to handle any fishing adventure.
Discover insider secrets on how to store your reels properly during off-seasons and learn about routine maintenance that will keep them performing at their best. Don't let wear and tear compromise your angling experience – follow our expert tips and keep your fly reels in pristine condition for endless fishing escapades!
Your fly reel is a crucial piece of equipment that allows you to smoothly control the line while casting and retrieve it when reeling in a fish. Like any mechanical device, it requires regular maintenance to ensure it functions flawlessly over time. Neglecting proper care can lead to decreased performance, damage, and even failure, which can ruin your fishing experience. By investing a little time and effort into maintaining your fly reel, you can enjoy years of trouble-free fishing adventures.
One of the main reasons why maintaining your fly reel is important is to prevent wear and tear. As you use your reel, dirt, grime, and debris can accumulate, causing the internal components to become clogged or corroded. This can result in a loss of smoothness and functionality, making casting and retrieving more difficult. Regular maintenance, such as cleaning and lubricating, helps to remove these contaminants and keep your reel in optimal condition.
Another reason to maintain your fly reel is to protect it against corrosion. Exposure to water, especially saltwater, can cause the reel's metal parts to corrode over time. Corrosion not only affects the reel's performance but also its appearance. By following proper maintenance practices, you can minimize the risk of corrosion and prolong the lifespan of your fly reel.
To properly maintain your fly reel, it's essential to be aware of common signs of wear and tear. Recognizing these signs early on will allow you to address any issues before they worsen. Here are some common indicators that your fly reel may require maintenance:
1. Drag system issues: If you notice a change in the smoothness of the drag system, such as inconsistent resistance or a grinding noise, it's a sign that your reel needs attention. This could indicate a lack of lubrication or the presence of debris within the drag system.
2. Line retrieval difficulties: If you experience difficulties in retrieving the line smoothly or notice any jerking or sticking, it's a sign that your reel may need cleaning and lubrication. Dirt and debris can accumulate within the reel's components, hindering the line retrieval process.
3. Rust or corrosion: Any visible signs of rust or corrosion on the reel's surface or parts should not be ignored. These can compromise the reel's performance and lead to further damage if left untreated. Regular cleaning and proper storage techniques can help prevent rust and corrosion.
By keeping a close eye on these signs, you can catch potential issues early and take the necessary steps to maintain your fly reel's performance.
Regular cleaning and lubrication are vital for maintaining the smooth operation of your fly reel. Here's a step-by-step guide on how to clean and lubricate your reel:
1. Gather the necessary tools: Before you start cleaning your reel, ensure you have the right tools on hand. You'll need a soft cloth, a toothbrush or soft-bristled brush, warm water, mild soap, reel oil, and reel grease.
2. Disassemble the reel: Carefully disassemble your fly reel, following the manufacturer's instructions. Take note of the order and orientation of the parts to make reassembly easier.
3. Clean the reel: Use warm water and mild soap to clean the reel's components. Gently scrub the parts with a toothbrush or soft-bristled brush to remove any dirt, grime, or debris. Pay special attention to areas where dirt tends to accumulate, such as the drag system and the spool.
4. Dry the components: After cleaning, thoroughly dry each component using a soft cloth. Ensure there is no moisture left, as it can lead to corrosion.
5. Apply lubrication: Once the components are dry, apply reel oil to the necessary areas, such as the bearings, gears, and moving parts. Be careful not to over-lubricate, as excess oil can attract dirt and debris. For the drag system, use reel grease to ensure smooth operation.
6. Reassemble the reel: Carefully reassemble the reel, following the correct order and orientation of the parts. Ensure all screws and fasteners are tightened properly.
By regularly cleaning and lubricating your fly reel, you can maintain its smooth operation and prevent issues caused by dirt, grime, and lack of lubrication.
Proper storage of your fly reel is essential, especially during off-seasons or when you're not using it for an extended period. Here are some tips to ensure your reel remains in top-notch condition while in storage:
1. Clean and dry your reel: Before storing your reel, make sure it's clean and completely dry. Any residual water or moisture can lead to corrosion, especially if stored for a long time.
2. Store in a cool, dry place: Choose a storage location that is cool, dry, and away from direct sunlight. Avoid areas with high humidity, as it can promote rust and corrosion.
3. Use reel covers or cases: Consider using reel covers or cases to provide additional protection against dust, dirt, and potential impacts. These protective covers help prevent scratches and other damage during storage.
4. Avoid storing near chemicals: Keep your fly reel away from any chemicals, solvents, or corrosive substances that could potentially damage the reel's finish or internal components.
5. Rotate the line: If you're storing your reel for an extended period, it's a good idea to rotate the fly line. This helps prevent the line from developing memory or becoming damaged in one specific area.
By following these storage techniques, you can ensure your fly reel remains in excellent condition, ready to perform when you're ready to hit the water again.
To extend the lifespan of your fly reel, regular maintenance is key. Here are some additional tips to help you keep your reel in top shape for years to come:
1. Inspect your reel before and after each use: Before heading out for a fishing trip, inspect your reel for any signs of damage or wear. After each use, clean the reel and check for any issues that may require immediate attention.
2. Avoid exposure to extreme temperatures: Extreme heat or cold can affect the performance and longevity of your fly reel. Avoid leaving it in a hot car or exposing it to freezing temperatures for extended periods.
3. Protect against impacts: Fly reels are designed to withstand normal fishing conditions, but they can still be damaged by strong impacts. Avoid dropping your reel or subjecting it to unnecessary force.
4. Don't overtighten the drag: When adjusting the drag system, avoid overtightening. Excessive drag pressure can strain the reel's components and lead to premature wear.
5. Regularly inspect the line: Check your fly line for any signs of wear, such as cracks or fraying. Replace the line if necessary to prevent damage to the reel and ensure smooth casting and retrieval.
By incorporating these maintenance practices into your fly fishing routine, you can significantly extend the lifespan of your reel and enjoy many successful fishing trips.
Prevention is always better than cure. Here are some tips to help prevent damage to your fly reel:
1. Avoid sand and grit: Keep your reel away from sand and grit, as they can cause damage and abrasion to the reel's surface and internal components. Be cautious when setting your reel down on sandy or rocky surfaces.
2. Use a landing net: When landing a fish, use a landing net to avoid putting excessive pressure or stress on the reel. This helps prevent damage to the reel's drag system and frame.
3. Handle with care: Treat your fly reel with care and avoid unnecessary rough handling. Be gentle when reeling in a fish and avoid tugging or jerking motions that could strain the reel.
4. Avoid exposure to saltwater: If you're fishing in saltwater, rinse your reel with freshwater after each use to remove any salt residue. Saltwater can accelerate corrosion, so proper cleaning is crucial.
5. Regularly check for loose screws: Over time, the vibration and movement during fishing can cause screws to become loose. Periodically check for any loose screws and tighten them as needed.
By following these preventive measures, you can minimize the risk of damage to your fly reel and ensure its longevity.
Having the right tools can make the maintenance process easier and more efficient. Here are some recommended tools for maintaining your fly reels:
1. Soft cloth: A soft cloth is essential for wiping down and drying the reel components after cleaning.
2. Toothbrush or soft-bristled brush: Use a toothbrush or soft-bristled brush to gently scrub away dirt and debris from hard-to-reach areas of the reel.
3. Warm water and mild soap: Warm water and mild soap are effective for cleaning the reel's components without causing damage.
4. Reel oil: Reel oil is specifically formulated to lubricate the moving parts of the reel, ensuring smooth operation.
5. Reel grease: Reel grease is thicker than reel oil and is used to lubricate the drag system and other areas that require more substantial lubrication.
6. Screwdriver set: A set of screwdrivers with various sizes and types of heads is essential for disassembling and reassembling the reel.
By having these tools readily available, you can confidently maintain your fly reel and address any maintenance needs promptly.
Even with regular maintenance, fly reel issues can occasionally arise. Here are some expert tips for troubleshooting common problems:
1. Drag system not engaging: If the drag system is not engaging or feels too loose, check to ensure it is properly adjusted. If the problem persists, it may require cleaning and lubrication.
2. Reel handle sticking or not turning smoothly: If the reel handle sticks or does not turn smoothly, it may be due to dirt or debris on the handle or the reel's spindle. Clean the affected areas and apply a small amount of reel oil to lubricate.
3. Line tangling or not spooling evenly: If you experience issues with line tangling or uneven spooling, it may be due to improper line lay or a problem with the spool's mechanism. Disassemble the spool and check for any obstructions or damage.
4. Excessive noise during line retrieval: If you hear excessive noise, such as grinding or clicking, during line retrieval, it may indicate a lack of lubrication or worn-out bearings. Clean and lubricate the affected areas or consider replacing the bearings if necessary.
5. Handle or drag system feels loose: If the handle or drag system feels loose, it may be due to loose screws or fasteners. Check all screws and tighten them as needed, being careful not to overtighten.
If you encounter any issues beyond your expertise or are unsure how to address them, it's best to consult a professional or contact the manufacturer for assistance.
In conclusion, maintaining and extending the lifespan of your fly reels is essential for optimal performance and longevity. By following the expert tips and techniques shared in this article, you can confidently take care of your reels and ensure they remain in top-notch condition for years to come.
Regular cleaning, lubrication, and proper storage techniques are the foundations of fly reel maintenance. By identifying common signs of wear and tear, you can address any issues promptly and prevent further damage. With regular maintenance, you can prevent corrosion, extend the lifespan of your reel, and enjoy countless successful fishing adventures.
Remember to handle your fly reel with care, prevent damage through preventive measures, and use the recommended tools for maintenance. By incorporating these practices into your fly fishing routine, you can maximize the performance and lifespan of your fly reels. So go ahead, hit the water, and embark on exciting fishing escapades, knowing your reels are well-maintained and ready for action!
]]>If I had to design a college course on the history of fly fishing and fly rods, it would be broken up into three parts: books, people, and technology.
The information below is a living document, if you will. That means we’ll be changing this, updating it, and adding to it as time goes on.
But we had to start somewhere so here goes nothing.
1. Aelian’s Natural History
The first mention of fly fishing is in Aelian's Natural History, a work of natural history written in Greek by Claudius Aelianus around AD 200. Aelian's work provides a description of various types of fishing, including fly fishing, which he refers to as "stile fishing."
In his description of stile fishing, Aelian notes that anglers used artificial flies made from feathers and other materials to imitate insects and other prey. He also mentions the use of long rods and delicate lines, which were used to present the flies to the fish in a natural and convincing manner.
Aelian's Natural History is considered one of the earliest written records of fly fishing and provides important insight into the ancient origins of the sport. It is a valuable historical document that has been widely studied and referenced by historians, anglers, and enthusiasts.
2. Treatyse of Fysshynge with an Angle
"The Treatyse of Fysshynge with an Angle" is a 14th century manuscript that is considered one of the earliest written works on fly fishing.
The author of the treatise is believed to be Dame Juliana Berners, a nun and avid angler who lived in England during the late Middle Ages.
But the treatise is anonymous, and the true identity of its author has been the subject of much speculation and debate among historians and scholars.
The treatise is written in Middle English and provides detailed instructions on the art of fly fishing, including how to make and use flies, cast a line, and play and land fish.
In the poem, she describes the use of a rod and line for fishing, with the angler casting an artificial fly to simulate the movement of live insects.
In addition to its practical information on fly fishing, "The Treatyse of Fysshynge with an Angle" is also notable for its role in popularizing the sport.
The treatise was widely circulated in the 15th and 16th centuries, and it is credited with spreading the popularity of fly fishing throughout Europe and beyond.
The Treatyse is considered the first recorded English text on fly fishing, and it provides a detailed description of the equipment and techniques used in the sport.
It was written in the 14th century, and its language and style suggest that it was composed by someone who was well-educated and knowledgeable about the sport of fishing.
Despite the uncertainty surrounding the author of The Treatyse, the treatise remains an important historical document and a valuable resource for anyone interested in the early history of fly fishing.
It provides important insights into the development of fly fishing equipment and techniques and is widely referenced and studied by historians, anglers, and enthusiasts.
Today, "The Treatyse of Fysshynge with an Angle" is considered a classic work in the history of fly fishing and is widely recognized as one of the earliest written records of the sport.
3. The Complete Angler by Izaak Walton
The Complete Angler by Izaak Walton is considered another classic text on fly fishing, among other types of fishing. The book was first published in 1653 and has since been widely regarded as one of the most important and influential works on angling and fishing.
The Complete Angler is a philosophical treatise on the art of fishing and the joys of angling. It describes various types of fishing, including fly fishing, and provides detailed instructions on the equipment, techniques, and tactics used for each type of fishing. The book is considered a timeless classic, and its observations and advice on fishing are still relevant and widely quoted today.
In addition to its practical advice and insights on fishing, The Complete Angler is also known for its pastoral and philosophical tone, which has helped to cement its reputation as one of the most important works on angling.
The book has been widely read and studied for centuries and remains a must-read for anyone interested in the history and traditions of fly fishing.
Aelian’s Natural History, The Treatyse, and the Complete Angler are the three primary books in the history of fly fishing.
Obviously, there are numerous modern books on the sport that advance the technological understanding of the sport.
But these three works are the primary historical works that launched the interest and understanding of fly fishing.
Now let’s turn our attention to the construction techniques of fly rods through time.
Greenheart Fly Rods
Over the centuries, the design and construction of fly rods evolved and became more sophisticated.
Early fly rods were typically made from greenheart, a strong but flexible wood that grew in abundance in Europe.
Greenheart fly rods were fly rods made from a dense, strong wood called greenheart, which is native to South America and West Africa.
Greenheart was used to make fly rods in the early-to-mid 20th century, before the widespread adoption of fiberglass and graphite rods.
Greenheart was prized for its strength and durability, as well as its ability to absorb shock and provide good casting performance.
The wood was typically split into strips, which were then glued together to form the blank for the rod. The finished rods were often varnished or oiled to protect the wood and preserve its appearance.
Greenheart fly rods were popular among anglers because they offered a nice balance of strength and sensitivity, and were often considered to have a more traditional and classic feel than modern rods made from fiberglass or graphite.
However, they were also heavier and more difficult to manufacture than modern materials, and they required more maintenance to keep them in good condition.
Today, greenheart fly rods are considered to be a part of the history of fly fishing, and are sought after by collectors and enthusiasts.
While they are no longer widely used for fishing, they remain a testament to the craftsmanship and dedication of the anglers and rod makers who used and made them.
Bamboo Fly Rods
By the 19th century, bamboo had become the material of choice for fly rods, as it was stronger, lighter, and more flexible than greenheart.
Bamboo fly rods in the 19th century were made by a process known as rod-making or rod-splitting.
This process involved selecting straight-grained, mature bamboo stalks and splitting them into thin strips, which were then glued together and shaped into a rod.
The first step in making a bamboo fly rod was selecting the right bamboo. This typically involved looking for stalks that were straight-grained and had no knots or defects.
Once the bamboo was harvested, it was split into thin strips using a specialized tool called a rod-splitting knife. These strips were then sorted and graded based on their quality and thickness.
Next, the strips were glued together to form the blank, or rough shape, of the rod. This was typically done using a special glue that was strong and flexible enough to withstand the forces of casting and playing a fish.
The glued blank was then shaped into the desired form using a combination of heat and pressure.
Once the blank was shaped, the rod-maker would then apply multiple coats of varnish to protect the bamboo and give it a smooth, glossy finish.
Finally, the rod was fitted with hardware, such as the reel seat, ferrules, and guides, and the line was attached.
Throughout the 19th century, bamboo fly rods were made by hand and were considered highly prized possessions. They were also relatively expensive, and only the wealthiest anglers could afford to purchase them.
Despite the cost, bamboo fly rods remained popular for their strength, flexibility, and sensitivity, and they continue to be used by fly fishers today as a nod to the sport's history and tradition.
The first companies to make fly rods are not known with certainty, as the early history of fly fishing equipment is not well documented.
However, the sport of fly fishing became more popular in the 19th century, and it was during this time that the first companies dedicated to the production of fly fishing equipment emerged.
Some of the early companies to make fly rods include Leonard Rod Company, founded in 1879 in Central Bridge, New York, and Thomas Chubb, a rod maker based in London, England.
These early companies and their successors helped to popularize fly fishing and paved the way for the development of more advanced fly rods and other fishing equipment.
Any discussion of the history of fly rods would be incomplete without a discussion of Orvis.
Orvis is a privately-held, American-based company that was founded in 1856 by Charles F. Orvis.
The company started as a fishing tackle retailer, selling high-quality fishing equipment and supplies to anglers and hunters.
Charles F. Orvis was born in 1836 in Vermont, United States. He was raised in a family with a passion for the outdoors and fishing, and he developed a love for both at an early age.
In 1856, Charles established the Orvis Company in Manchester, Vermont as a fishing tackle retailer, selling high-quality fishing equipment and supplies to anglers and hunters.
He was an avid angler and outdoor enthusiast, and he saw an opportunity to bring his passion and expertise to the sport of fishing.
He started the company with a focus on producing high-quality fishing equipment that was accessible to anglers of all skill levels, and he quickly gained a reputation for producing some of the best fishing gear on the market.
Throughout his life, Charles Orvis was known for his innovation and quality, and he was recognized as a leader in the fishing and hunting industry.
He was dedicated to producing high-quality fishing gear, and he continued to lead the Orvis Company for many years.
His commitment to innovation and quality helped to establish the Orvis Company as one of the largest and most respected companies in the field, and his legacy continues to be felt today.
Charles Orvis died in 1915, but his company continues to be family-owned and operated, and it is still dedicated to preserving its legacy of innovation and quality for generations to come.
Over the years, the Orvis Company expanded and diversified, branching into other areas of the outdoor industry and becoming one of the largest and most respected companies in the field.
Today, the company is known for producing a wide range of products, including fly rods, reels, fishing gear, hunting equipment, and outdoor clothing and accessories.
Orvis has a long history of innovation and quality, and it has been recognized as a leader in the fishing and hunting industry for over 150 years.
Despite its growth and success, the company remains family-owned and operated, and it is committed to preserving its legacy of innovation and quality for generations to come.
Fiberglass Fly Rods
Dr. Paul J. Howald was another American inventor and engineer who was known for his contributions to the sport of fly fishing.
He was the developer of the Howald Process, a method of making fly rods that involved wrapping fiberglass around a mandrel and impregnating the fiberglass with resin to provide added strength and stiffness.
The process involves wrapping layers of fiberglass around a mandrel, which is a rod-like tool used as a form to shape the rod.
The fiberglass is then impregnated with resin to provide added strength and stiffness, and the rod is heat-cured to finish the process.
The Howald Process was a major innovation in the manufacture of fly rods, as it allowed manufacturers to produce rods that were stronger and more durable than previous models, while also reducing production time and costs.
The process was widely adopted by manufacturers and quickly became a standard in the industry.
The Shakespeare Fly Rod Company was founded in 1897 in Kalamazoo, Michigan by William Shakespeare, Jr. The company was one of the early manufacturers of fishing equipment, and it was established to meet the growing demand for high-quality fly rods and other fishing gear.
William Shakespeare, Jr. was an entrepreneur and innovator who had a passion for fishing, and he saw an opportunity to bring his skills and experience to the sport.
He started the company with a focus on producing high-quality fly rods that were accessible to anglers of all skill levels, and he quickly gained a reputation for producing some of the best fishing equipment on the market.
Shakespeare's innovative designs, attention to detail, and commitment to quality helped the company to grow rapidly, and it soon became one of the leading manufacturers of fly rods and other fishing equipment.
Over the years, the company continued to innovate and expand, and it became one of the largest and most respected fishing equipment manufacturers in the world.
Today, the Shakespeare Fly Rod Company is a subsidiary of Pure Fishing, a global fishing equipment company.
Despite its acquisition, the company continues to be recognized for its quality and innovation, and it remains one of the leading brands in the fishing industry.
The Howald Process is still used today by some manufacturers to make fly rods, although it has since been improved and modified in various ways.
Today, the process has been largely supplanted by newer, more advanced methods of making fly rods, such as the use of graphite and other high-tech materials.
Despite this, the Howald Process remains an important part of the history of fly rod manufacturing and continues to be a valuable contribution to the sport of fly fishing.
The introduction of fiberglass and other modern materials in the mid-20th century revolutionized the construction of fly rods, making them lighter, more durable, and easier to cast.
The introduction of fiberglass and other modern materials in the mid-20th century revolutionized the construction of fly rods in several ways:
1. Lighter weight: One of the biggest benefits of using fiberglass and other modern materials was that they made fly rods lighter and easier to handle. This allowed anglers to cast more easily and for longer periods of time without becoming fatigued.
2. Increased durability: Unlike bamboo, which was prone to cracking and breaking, fiberglass and other modern materials were much more durable and resistant to damage. This made fly rods more reliable and longer-lasting, reducing the need for frequent repairs or replacements.
3. Improved casting performance: Fiberglass and other modern materials also improved the casting performance of fly rods. They provided a more consistent and uniform rod action, which allowed for more accurate and longer casts. Additionally, fiberglass rods were less likely to twist or bend, which improved casting accuracy and accuracy.
4. Lower cost: Another benefit of using fiberglass and other modern materials was that they made fly rods more affordable. This allowed more people to take up fly fishing, as they could purchase a high-quality rod at a lower cost.
5. Customizability: The use of fiberglass and other modern materials also made it possible to create a wide range of fly rods with different tapers, lengths, and actions, which allowed anglers to choose the rod that best suited their needs and fishing style.
In conclusion, the introduction of fiberglass and other modern materials in the mid-20th century transformed the construction of fly rods, making them lighter, more durable, and easier to cast.
Additionally, these materials made fly rods more affordable and accessible, and allowed for greater customization, which in turn led to the continued growth and popularity of fly fishing.
Graphite Fly Rods
Today, fly rods are typically made from a range of materials, including graphite, fiberglass, and composite materials, and they come in a wide range of lengths, actions, and tapers to suit different fishing styles and species of fish.
Graphite fly rods are typically made using a process known as filament winding, where a series of high-strength graphite fibers are wound around a mandrel, or rod-shaped form, under controlled tension.
The mandrel is coated with a resin, and the graphite fibers are then wound in a specific pattern to achieve the desired strength and flexibility for the rod.
Here is a general outline of the steps involved in making a graphite fly rod:
1. Preparing the mandrel: The mandrel is coated with a release agent, which helps prevent the finished rod from sticking to it.
2. Applying the resin: A resin is applied to the mandrel, and the mandrel is then placed in a heated chamber to cure the resin and form the basic structure of the rod.
3. Wound graphite fibers: The graphite fibers are then wound around the mandrel using a computer-controlled winding machine. The fibers are arranged in specific patterns to achieve the desired strength and flexibility characteristics for the rod.
4. Curing: Once the graphite fibers have been wound, the mandrel is placed in a high-heat chamber to cure the resin and solidify the rod.
5. Finishing: After curing, the mandrel is removed and the rod is finished by trimming the ends, sanding, and applying any final coatings or finishes.
6. Hardware installation: Finally, the rod is fitted with the necessary hardware, such as the reel seat, guides, and ferrules, and is tested for accuracy and strength.
Graphite fly rods are known for their light weight, strength, and sensitivity. They offer a variety of benefits over traditional bamboo or fiberglass rods, including improved accuracy, longer casting distance, and greater sensitivity to bites.
They are also more durable and resistant to breakage, making them a popular choice for fly fishing enthusiasts.
In addition to advancements in materials, the design of fly rods has also evolved over time.
Today, fly rods are designed with specific actions and tapers to suit different fishing styles, from delicate presentations for small streams to heavy-duty rods for big game fishing.
This variety of options allows anglers to choose the right rod for the type of fishing they want to do, whether they are targeting small trout or large tarpon.
In summary, the history of fly rods has been marked by a long and continuous evolution, from the simple wooden rods of the 14th century to the modern,
If you want to trade-in your used fly fishing rod or reel, this guide will help you decide which fly shop trade-in program is best for you.
We’ve collected all the important information about fly fishing trade-in programs and organized it here to help you decide which trade in program will accomplish your goals, whether that's a gear upgrade or to sell your used fly rod and reel for cash.
]]>If you want to trade-in your used fly fishing rod or reel, this guide will help you decide which fly shop trade-in program is best for you.
We’ve collected all the important information about fly fishing trade-in programs and organized it here to help you decide which trade in program will accomplish your goals, whether that's a gear upgrade or to sell your used fly rod and reel for cash.
Plain and simple: You save money.
Fly rod trade-in programs are an excellent way for customers to upgrade their gear and stay up to date with the latest technology without having to pay full price.
For example, if a customer has an old, outdated fly rod that they want to replace with a newer model, they can take advantage of a trade-in program to get a discount on the new rod.
This makes it easier for customers to keep up with the latest gear without breaking the bank.
In addition to the financial benefits, fly rod trade-in programs also help customers get rid of their old gear in a responsible way.
Fly rod trade-in programs also benefit fly fishing companies by promoting customer loyalty and boosting sales.
By offering trade-in programs, companies are encouraging their customers to buy from them again instead of switching to a competitor.
Customers are more likely to buy from a company that offers trade-in programs because they know they can upgrade their gear at a discounted price.
This helps to build customer loyalty and keep customers coming back for more.
In addition, fly rod trade-in programs can help to boost sales of new products.
When customers trade in their old gear, they are more likely to buy a new rod from the same company.
This can help to drive sales of new products and increase revenue for the company.
Fly rod trade-in programs are also an excellent way for companies to differentiate themselves from their competitors.
By offering trade-in programs, companies are providing an extra incentive for customers to buy from them instead of their competitors.
This can help to create a competitive advantage and attract new customers to the company.
There are some drawbacks to fly rod trade-in programs that customers should be aware of.
Fly fishing trade in programs let you trade in your used fly rod, reel, or other gear for store credit towards new items in fly shops or cash.
Fly rod trade-in programs are initiatives offered by fly fishing companies to encourage their customers to upgrade their fly fishing gear.
The programs are designed to benefit both the customer and the company offering the program.
Customers can upgrade their fly fishing gear at a discounted price, while the company can boost sales of new products and promote customer loyalty.
The process of participating in a fly rod trade-in program typically involves trading in an old fly rod in exchange for credit towards the purchase of a new one.
Outfishers is the only program we’re aware of that let’s you trade your fly rod or reel in for cash.
The advantage to this is you can obviously take cash and use it to buy anything.
You can turn the value of your fly rod into new fly fishing gear or sometimes other used fly rods and reels.
Most fly fishing trade in programs will establish a value for your rod, reel, or other gear and let you apply that value as credit towards new gear in their shop.
The advantage with a store-credit based fly fishing trade in program is that you get to unlock the value of your existing gear and walk out of the store with a new rod or reel. Pretty sweet.
The disadvantage here is you’re limited to fly fishing gear within the store.
So if you’re looking at this option, you want to be sure that whatever store you’re trading into has something that you want.
If you want a new Sage R8, better make sure your fly shop either has one in stock or can get it for you.
Once you’ve turn your used rod into store credit at that shop, you’re locked in to buying something there.
These programs let you bring a rod or reel into a fly shop. The fly shop will photograph and list your item for sale on their website or elsewhere.
If they get an offer or the item sells for the listed value, you get credit for that amount or a portion of the sold price.
So the same advantages apply with these consignment rod and reel trade in programs that you get with store-credit based items.
You get to unlock the value of your fly fishing gear, you get credit towards new gear (eventually), but still no beer or diapers.
The big disadvantage here is time: you have no idea how long it could take to sell your gear and consequently have no idea how long it will take you to get new gear if you’re waiting on that store credit to trade up.
So if you’ve got a fishing trip coming up you were hoping to have a new rod for, this is not your best route.
The fly shops like consignment basis because they don’t have to lock up capital waiting for your old rod or reel to sell and they don’t take financial risk because there’s no chance of the item selling for less than the credit they give you.
In short, you bring your gear to a fly shop and they put it on eBay for you. Whatever it sells for is the credit you get.
There’s a lot to unpack here.
First, you don’t get immediate credit but assuming the fly shop uses 7-day auctions, you’ll have store credit in a week.
But you don’t know how much it’ll be.
And I can tell you that auctioning fly fishing gear off on eBay is financially risky.
I’ve seen rods and reels sell for hundreds more and hundreds less than their average value.
It’s a good old fashioned crapshoot. But again, the fly shops like it because they take no risk.
1. What rods and reels does the trade-in program accept?
The eligibility criteria may vary depending on the program, but typically involves the brand, age, or condition of the rod being traded in.
It is important to check these requirements before participating in the program.
Once the eligibility of the rod or reel is confirmed, the customer will receive a credit amount based on the value of the rod.
This amount can then be applied towards the purchase of a new fly rod from the retailer or manufacturer offering the program.
The credit amount may vary depending on the program, but can often be a significant discount on the purchase of a new fly rod.
Current Production and Recently Discontinued Fly Rods and Reels
Some trade in programs will only take rods and reels they can quickly turn around and sell so they’ll stick to equipment from the last 10 years.
For example, Sage X's and Helios 2’s would fall into the 'Recently Discontinued' catagory. Sage R8's and Helios 3's would be classified under 'Current Production' as they're still being produced by the manufacturers.
Bamboo and Vintage Rods
Other shops will also accept vintage and bamboo rods.
There’s a little more risk in vintage and bamboo rod trade ins for fly shops because they simply don’t sell as fast.
The reason is simple: most people buying vintage and bamboo rods are buying them for collectors value, not to go fishing with. And bamboo fly rod collectors typically don’t shop in fly shops.
The higher the value of the rod or reel you want to trade in, the more likely a fly shop is to take it for trade in BUT not all the time.
There are lots of bamboo rods that sell for thousands of dollars and a lot of trade in programs would shy away from those.
If they’re off on the value they offer you by a few percent, it can mean hundreds of dollars lost.
Some fly shops also accept other fly fishing lightly used boots, waders, packs and more.
If you bought a pair of wading boots but for whatever reason, they sat in the corner of your closet you may be able to find some shops that will take them for trade-in credit.
2. Do they require original accessories?
Fly rod tubes, sleeves, and reel cases are all really important to protecting gear.
3. Who pays for shipping?
Outfishers is the only trade in program that sends you a prepaid shipping label to trade in a rod or reel.
On top of that, we insure your rod or reel automatically for the value we quote you.
Most trade-in programs require you to ship the rod to their store or bring it in person. So you bear the cost of that shipping, which can be significant and uses averages at least $30 with insurance.
4. Do they take in-kind trades?
In-Kind trades are when you want to trade straight up, your rod for a shop’s rod.
There aren’t many circumstances that are going to make this a win/win for the fly shop and as a result there aren’t any fly shops we’re aware of that advertise this.
You may talk a willing fly shop owner into doing an in-kind trade if you’re getting rid of a high-end rod, say a Sage X, and buying a lower-end fly rod, perhaps a Redington.
But keep in mind, fly shops have to pay bills too and they’re only going to do an in-kind trade if it makes financial sense for them.
5. How much extra do they pay for spare spools?
Extra spools for fly reels don’t bring nearly their original value in the secondary market. If you’re lucky, selling an extra spool that matches your reel may bring you an extra 25%.
6. Are customized rods and reels acceptable?
A few fly shops will take custom gear. The value of custom gear varies more dramatically than almost any other product you could trade in.
You may have an old Sage blank that your grandfather put together in his basement with some of your grandmothers extra sewing thread.
A used fly rod like this is going to bring a low trade-in value.
On the other hand there are tons of wonderful custom fly rod makers that have excellent reputations and can bring high dollars in the secondary market.
Many of these will bring surprisingly high trade-in values.
The challenge is that most fly shops will have to spend a lot of time researching the value of a custom rod and as we all know, time is money.
7. Can you trade in or sell modified or signed fly rods and reels?
Most modifications to fly rods and signatures of boat captains or your personal engraving on any fly rod or reel is going to decrease the trade in value of.
Think about it, would you want to fish a fly rod with some else’s name on it?
Most people wouldn’t and modifications can steer buyers away from an otherwise potentially great rod or reel.
8. Do they take fly rods and reels with replacement or repaired parts?
This is tricky. The reality is it can be difficult for fly shops to determine if a part has been replaced.
Repairs can be slightly easier to see but still aren’t always easy to spot. So unless you explicitly state that the rod or reel is repaired or has replacement parts, no one may ever know.
That said, Outfishers doesn’t sell anything with any parts we suspect have been repaired or replaced.
9. Are there expiration dates on the offers or store credit?
Some fly shops put expiration dates on your offer or your credit. Expiration dates on your offer are for two reasons.
First, to protect the fly shop from losing money in case the market for a particular rod changes over time.
For example, a fly rod manufacturer might disclose a manufacturing defect in an older model rod which would drive the prices of those models down significantly in the secondary market for fly fishing equipment.
Second, fly shops need to know what kind of offers they have outstanding, particularly if they’re offering cash, to manage their liabilities.
10. Why is their trade-in value some fly shops offer different from others?
The trade-in value one fly shop may offer you for a rod or reel can vary dramatically from others for a variety of reasons.
One fly shop may have a customer that’s been waiting for a rod like yours and as a result the shop owner knows he can turn that rod around immediately.
In this case, you’re likely to get a high value.
But baked into those values are different operating models. For example, Outfishers covers your shipping costs which means you won’t have to pay shipping to get your rod to us.
This can equate to $30 on average, depending on the item being shipped and your location relative to our shop.
To compare our offer value to others, you would have to include the cost of the shipping and then compare the various offers.
There you go, everything you ever wanted to know about fly fishing trade-in programs.
In case we failed to mention it, we've got a great one here at Outfishers.
So if you're looking to upgrade your gear and want to cash in on the value of your old gear, check out our trade-in program here at Outfishers.
]]>
We've all got one.
A fly rod that we bought a few years ago and now it's been sitting in the corner collecting dust.
Maybe you didn't like it as much as you'd hoped you were going to. Maybe you couldn’t fish as frequently as you'd planned. Or maybe you've upgraded to something better.
In any case, you can turn that fly rod into cash by selling it or unlocking its value toward a trade-in.
There are a variety of ways to unlock your old fly rod's value. I'm going to show you the best ways to turn your old fly rod into cash.
Selling your fly rod will let you unlock the value of your investment and use those funds towards your new fly rod or simply have the cash to buy whatever you want.
So how do you get the most money for your fly rod?
What's the market like for used fly rods?
How much should you expect to get for the sale of your fly rod?
And where should you list it?
If you're thinking about selling your fly rod and need some help answering these questions, I'm going to help you out.
First, you need to understand the market for your fly rod. When you buy any good from a retailer or directly from a manufacturer, that market is called the primary market.
When you, the primary buyer, turn around and re-sell that good, it's called the secondary market.
Ebay is hands down the most open, transparent secondary market for fly rods, or almost anything for that matter.
At any time there are thousands of fly rods available for sale on eBay. In fact, right now there are over 5,000 fly rods for sale on eBay.
A simple search of your brand and model fly rod will probably turn up at least a few results of current auctions of like models.
But here's the key to understanding your fly rod’s market.
Just because someone has set a minimum bid price or the best offer price, does NOT mean that's the market value.
A market is only created with the presence of a buyer and an arms-length transaction.
If this sounds like an economics class, well you're on the right track.
Go to the results of the search of your brand and model (don't worry about the rod length or rod weight at this point) and check the box for sold items. This will automatically trigger the completed checkbox as well.
Now, the results you see are actual transactions and prices that rods just like yours have recently sold for. This is your market.
Well, maybe. Maybe not. Here's why.
The more frequent and current the sales are, the more comparable the results will be to what you can expect (all else equal).
In our experience, the most desired and liquid market for fly rods exists for 9' 5-weight rods. Why?
Because that's the most commonly accepted all-around general fly rod size that's useful for fishing in a myriad of situations.
The further your fly rod is from a 9' 5-weight, the more difficult it may take to sell for a fair price.
If your fly rod is vintage, you are targeting a totally different market than the practical fishing market.
Most folks buying a $3,000 Orvis bamboo rod from the 1800s aren't running out and fishing with it.
It's valuable for its collector value, not its fishing value.
Some rods that are out of production have held or increased their value, like the Sage LL model that has been replaced by the Sage Trout LL model.
Furthermore, if your fly rod is custom, it might be more difficult to sell.
The great thing about eBay is you can see how much rods like yours have sold for.
Are you in a rush? Do you have a fishing trip coming up that you want a new rod for or are you just ready to upgrade and you're willing to wait for your price?
So after all of this, if you're not comfortable deciding on a price, you can simply auction it off and set a reserve price.
I always recommend setting a reserve price and here's why.
The market for specific fly rods can be illiquid at times, meaning there aren't a lot of buyers.
If there aren't enough buyers to compete and bid up your fly rod, you may not get a price you're happy with.
A reserve price will prevent the fly rod from being sold at a price you're unhappy with.
First, clean your fly rod, tube, and sleeve. Nothing fancy, just use good old Dawn soap and water.
Now, you need to make an honest assessment of your fly rod.
We've got a useful tool for that. Check out our Fly Rod Condition Rating Guide, go through the rating with your fly rod in hand and see how it stacks up.
If you don't give your fly rod a realistic grade, you're asking for trouble. eBay dispute resolutions, poor seller ratings, buyers fighting for their money back. It's just not worth it.
If there's a scratch on the blank, make a note of it. If there's writing on the rod sock, describe it. If there's weak epoxy on one of the guide feet, disclose it.
Your buyers will reward you for honesty and punish you for dishonesty.
Next, tell people why you're selling your fly rod. It's perfectly fine to let people know you're ready to try something new. Or you were gifted a fly rod you never wanted. Or whatever the reason.
The background information just gives buyers some insight into who you are and that you're not a scammer.
A word about the fly rod warranties.
I don’t know of any fly rod manufacturer who honors their warranty in writing beyond the original purchaser.
Now that doesn’t mean that people don’t try to get around that.
Lots of folks sell used fly rods with blank warranty cards included, inherently advertising that the warranty for the rod is not yet registered and can be registered by the buyer.
Unless you're 100% sure that you never registered your fly rod and that the warranty is still registerable, don't represent that the rod is or isn't under warranty. Here's why.
Your transaction needs to end with the payment for you, the seller, and the receipt of goods for the buyer. If you represent that the warranty is registered and it's not, you've undercut your value.
On the other hand, if you represent that your rod is not registered and it turns out that somehow it isn't able to be registered, your buyer may come back to you for compensation and/or return.
How many photos should I take?
It amazes me when I see a fly rod for sale on a website with one lousy photo from far away of all the rod pieces, the sock, and the tube.
If you're already taking one picture, the extra effort required to take a bunch of photos is literally measured in seconds.
Whatever website you're choosing to sell your fly rod on, you should use the maximum number of photos they allow you to.
eBay currently allows users to upload 12 photos for free. Use them all!
What photos should I have?
Let's start with the fly rod. You should have one photo of the reel seat, one of the cork grip, one of a stripping guide, one of a running guide, and one of the tip-top.
Then, you should have a photo of the tube showing both the rod tube cap and the tube itself.
Lastly, you should have one photo of the sock. Often, they are dirty and wrinkled so if you need to, wash, iron, and use a lint brush to show the sock in its best light.
If there's any damage to the rod or tube, you should absolutely take a photo of it and use it.
You might think that showing off the flaws in the rod will hurt your chances of selling it. In our experience, it's the opposite.
Putting the flaws in your fly rod on display for the world to see shows buyers that you have nothing to hide.
It creates open and honest communication and transaction between you and potential buyers.
Lighting and Camera
If you have a smartphone, you're halfway home. The cameras in smartphones are more than capable of taking great photos of your gear to sell.
What's equally important is the setting for your photo background.
The best background for photos is undoubtedly white and blank.
Don't try to get creative here. Nobody is going to be impressed by the oak workbench top or your kitchen table. Use a plain white sheet or a piece of poster board.
Place the gear on the posterboard and turn on every light in the room.
Then grab some house lamps and put them right up next to your gear.
Even better, if it's a nice day outside, take photographs outside. No light is better than natural light.
Ok. You've got your description written up, your price point figured out, and your photos taken. You're ready to list it. So where to?
There are three sites you should consider listing your fly rod on to sell it.
It's mentioned above but the best ways to get paid online are payment services that offer protection.
We use PayPal and Venmo. That's it.
We've tried other formats and checks and bank transfers and all kinds of stuff but in the end, we found the most comfort and ease with PayPal and Venmo.
The other way to get paid if you're selling a big-ticket item or you're still fearful about using PayPal and Venmo is to use an escrow service.
We've used escrow.com when we're making large bulk purchases and have found it successful but cumbersome.
Most United States Post Offices have boxes or sturdy poster tubes you can purchase that will fit your rod. Do NOT ship the rod tube without a box.
Some folks like to ship rods in PVC pipe, which is undoubtedly secure but also incredibly expensive because of the weight.
In our experience, a 200# test cardboard box stuffed with paper or bubble wrap does just fine.
Sure, there is an off chance that the box could be crushed in transit but in our experience, the likelihood of your rod getting lost in transit is much higher than it is getting damaged.
That's why you should ALWAYS insure your rod for its full value.
We typically use UPS to ship our rods. We've had good luck and they tend to be less expensive than FedEx for us. But several businesses won't use anything but the USPS.
Either way, just to reiterate, you should ALWAYS buy insurance on your rod.
We'll go ahead and end this post with a shameless plug.
Look, you could worry about all the stuff discussed up to this point, or ... you could simply sell it to Outfishers.
You get a quote for its value within 24 hours. We provide you with a free shipping label. And you get paid via PayPal or Venmo the day we get it in the mail. It's simple.
If you haven't checked out how we pay cash for fly rods, you should.
In any case, selling your used fly rod can unlock tons of value for you to continue your favorite hobby and pick up something new.
]]>For decades, anyone that wanted to buy a fly rod went into their local fly shop and chose from the new selection in stock.
Then along came the internet and eBay was born.
As eBay has developed, so has the secondary market for used fly rods.
Out of that market, Outfishers was born and we’re well on our way to building the largest selection of used fly rods.
I buy and sell used fly rods every day.
I understand how to navigate the pitfalls of buying used fly rods and also know the big advantages used fly rods have in comparison to buying new.
Buying a used fly rod isn’t unlike buying a used car.
Find a reputable dealer with options for returns and warranties and you can save big money.
I’ve complied seven reasons used fly rods are as good as new.
It’s no secret that used prices for any products are generally lower than new products. Fly rods are no different.
We monitor and record the prices of used fly rods daily.
We capture data from a variety of sources, both online and offline, and combine all that information together to determine the optimal listing price for our products.
To compare used prices to new prices, we can only really use what we call ‘on the run’ fly rods.
This means fly rods that are still production.
Original MSRP’s of rods that are no longer in production aren’t useful for price comparison because of inflation and changing market conditions.
But looking at ‘on the run’ rods, I can tell you that on average, the used fly rods we list are approximately 20%-40% less than new fly rod MSRP’s.
The percentage savings increases the further a rod is from new condition.
Here are two examples:
This should strike you for two reasons.
First, you can obviously save a ton of money buying a used fly rod.
When you’re shopping for premium fly rods that can go for over $1,000, that savings is huge.
Second, buying a new rod gives you an immediate depreciation loss, just like driving a new car off the lot.
If you ever trade in a fly rod that you bought new, you’ll take a much bigger hit than you would if you’d purchased a used fly rod.
Sometimes when we buy things, we change our minds, products are quite what we expected them to be, or life events happen, and you want to return something.
Fly rods are no different.
A decade ago, it might have been hard to find a source for used fly rods that offered returns but that’s changed.
Outfishers, along with a variety of dealers and even some private sellers, offer return on their items.
So you can send a used rod back and get a refund just like you can when you buy new.
Warranties are another special benefit.
Outfishers is the only source for used fly rods that offers warranties.
We can do this because of the expertise we’ve developed identifying rods that are likely to fail.
This innovative benefit of buying from us puts us on the same playing field as any manufacturer’s warranty.
With the introduction of Outfishers to the fly rod market, the benefits of buying new like returns and warranties are no longer reserved for new rods.
Every used fly rod we sell comes with 30-day returns and a lifetime warranty, subject to our terms and conditions.
So you can buy a used fly rod with the ease and confidence of buying new.
Here’s where it gets fun.
I love trying out new fly rods. But without used fly rods, trying out new rods is an expensive habit.
The only way to try out fly rods was to buy new or gamble buying a rod off eBay.
This was one of the problems I set out to solve with Outfishers.
So we pioneered our buyback guarantee.
If you buy a rod from Outfishers, we’ll buy it back anytime. Guaranteed.
When it comes time to try something new, just submit a TradeOut™ request and we’ll make you an offer.
If you accept the offer, send your rod back and we’ll apply the offer amount as credit to your Outfishers account.
All of this is designed to let you trade in and out of fly rods without taking as much of a depreciation hit as you would buying new.
The fly rod manufacturers are no different than any other industry.
Year after year, their rod designers are tasked with innovating and improving upon the prior generations of products.
But that doesn’t mean that last year’s products don’t catch fish.
There are plenty of incredible fly rods that are simply no longer made.
In fact, as trends in the fly rod marketplace ebb and flow, you may find yourself seeking a fly rod of the past.
The only way to get your hands on an older rod is to buy one used.
Opening yourself up to buying used fly rods gives you access to a market that has far more selection than simply buying new.
From bamboo to fiberglass to graphite and beyond, fly rod materials have come a long way in the past century.
Both fiberglass and graphite fly rods can literally last a lifetime.
Both materials could lose some stiffness over time if they’re used incessantly.
And fiberglass and graphite rods can fail if they’re not cared for properly.
For example, leaving a fly rod in the baking sun for extended periods of time or not cleaning them after saltwater use.
But reasonably good care and moderate use will keep both fiberglass and graphite fly rods in play for decades.
So if you think buying a used fly rod means buying a worn-out rod at risk of failing, think again.
Call it pride, call it love, call it just taking care of your stuff.
Call it what you want but most fly rod owners take good care of their sticks.
I always enjoy a conversation with a doubter about used fly rods.
Inevitably, one reasoning defaults to ‘you never know how they’ve been used’.
And that’s true.
Even our extensive inspections and loading testing doesn’t tell the history of a fly rod.
But after buying and selling fly rods for a few decades, meeting more fly fishermen than I can count, and going on countless trips, I can tell you I can remember two instances where I saw people treating rods in careless ways.
In fact, what I usually find are inexperienced fly fishermen are overly cautious with their rod, delicate with it almost to a fault.
Modern fly rods can take a relatively high amount of stress.
Now sure, there are 1,000 ways to snap a tip off or scratch the seat, but those repairs or blemishes are obvious.
This fear of lemons was another problem I wanted to solve with Outfishers.
Ultimately, after some lengthy studies and analysis, we concluded that we could offer a lifetime warranty on today’s rods and not have to worry about losing our shirts.
The reality is most modern fly rod manufacturers do a good job of quality assurance before products leave their factories.
Outfishers further refines the selection of our used fly rods by only carrying premium rods from the brands and fly rod makers we trust.
So if, on the off chance, you do buy a rod from Outfishers that hasn’t been treated well and it fails, we’ve got your back with our lifetime warranty.
But the truth is most fly fishermen are good stewards of their fly rods.
All this said, if a fly rod has been subjected to this type of use, over a period of years it will likely be broken at some point.
Repairs can be easily spotted if you know what to look for.
If a fly rod has been broken, it’s easy to spot by examining the epoxy and paint on the blank.
If the tip has been broken and replaced, a simple pull test of the last male and female ferrule joint will tell you whether the replacement tip was manufactured well enough to be a functioning replacement part.
If you can’t tell whether the tip has been replaced, it may never make a difference whether the tip was replaced.
There’s this fine line in fly fishing between being an advocate for the environment and not chaining yourself to a tree.
Companies like Patagonia do a great job of prioritizing the environment.
In recent years, Simms, under the guidance of former Patagonia CEO Casey Sheahan, has made a lot of progress taking activist roles in ecological projects.
Outfishers does our part in our very nature.
We sell used goods that keep new products in use longer.
That means less energy to produce new rods, less plastic to package them up, and less fossil fuels to move them across the ocean.
Used fly rods aren’t carbon zero by any means.
We still ship our products via planes, trains, and automobiles which of course use oil and gas for the most part.
But all the energy, plastic, and fossil fuels spent to produce and transport a new fly rod to market dramatically outweigh the small amount of packaging and shipping it takes to put a used fly rod in your hands.
Buying a used fly rod is a great way to make a simple small difference so the planet’s a good place for our grandkids to live.
So if you looking for one more reason to buy a used fly rod, the environment is it.
And you don’t even have to chain yourself to a tree.
For years, there hasn’t been much of a choice to buy used fly rods.
You were left with eBay, Craigslist, and Facebook Marketplace.
Outfishers is changing that by creating the largest and most trusted source for used fly rods.
And we’ve given seven great reasons why used fly rods are, well, good as new.
So the next time you’re in the market for a rod, think about how much money you could save and, down the road, when you’re ready to try something new again, how much less of a depreciation hit you’ll take starting with a used rod in the first place.
]]>After only a few outings, the dirt, oil, and grime quickly tarnish any new cork.
And within months, what was once a new cork looks like a fly rod that's been fished hard and put away wet.
Here's a Sage One fly rod cork grip I've had for a while. Look how dirty this is, even in the best of light. Makes me wonder if I need to wash my hands more.
Now, you’ve decided, it’s time to clean that dirty fly rod cork.
So you search Google and find 1,000 forum entries with different ways to clean your fly rod cork.
Where do you even start?
Here.
I've been fly fishing for thirty-years and I've cleaned more fly rod corks than I can count.
And after decades of trial and error, I’ll give you my best kept secret to clean a used fly rod cork.
What's the best way to clean your used fly rod cork so it looks new?
Well, it’s probably sitting with your household cleaning supplies.
It’s the Magic Eraser.
Yup, that's right. That little white sponge that folks use to clean their house with that you can buy for $5.
Over the last thirty years, I tried every trick in the book to clean fly rod corks.
In fact, all of those are listed below.
Then one day my wife was raging about how good this little Magic Eraser thing is.
I watched as she took fresh toy scuffs off the walls of our kids rooms.
Then cleaned my coffee stains from her favorite Yeti mug.
But the idea to clean my fly rod corks came to me after I saw her clean these cork trivets we have in our kitchen.
I had just gotten an old Sage VPS with a cork that was pretty dirty.
Nothing terrible, but certainly far from brand new.
So, I ran it under the faucet, wrang it out, and took about a dozen swipes up and down the cork on that Sage.
O.M.G. You’d think I’d just discovered electricity.
I could not believe how easy and well this worked.
The Magic Eraser removed the grime but preserved the original texture of the fly rod.
It was as if the rod was brand new again. It was a thing of beauty.
Cork is wood. A very soft wood, but still wood.
The Magic Eraser is an abrasive. A very soft abrasive, but still an abrasive. T
he Magic Eraser works like a very high-grit sandpaper attached to a very soft sanding block.
You’ll notice the Magic Eraser starts to come apart after a while and isn’t useful once the original surface is compromised, much like sandpaper.
Nowadays, the Magic Eraser is all we use to clean our corks for Outfishers.
Unless the plastic is still on the wrapper, if you’ve bought a fly rod from us, that cork has been cleaned with a Magic Eraser.
Want to give it a shot?
Oh yea, all those other things I remember trying over the years?
Well, here's a list of the way I can remember trying to clean my fly rod corks.
And to be fair, many of them worked to varying degrees.
But none have the combination of ease, cleanliness, preserving the cork, and speed as the Magic Eraser.
To sum up, the Magic Eraser is hands down the best fly rod cork cleaner I’ve ever used.
I’ve spent decades trying dozens of products and methods to clean my rod corks.
Buy a Magic Eraser, get it damp, and gently rub your rod cork until you’re happy.
Disagree? Find something even better or easier than a Magic Eraser? Or had success with this method?
Let me know, always love hearing from fly fishers facing the same challenges we do at Outfishers.
]]>Tippet? Gravel guards? Midges? I had no idea what these things were and whether I needed them.
Over time, I figured out what gear is important, and I've helped a lot of people get started in fly fishing.
You can pick the right fly-fishing gear, save money, and learn how to fly fish. I'm going to show you how.
]]>When I was just a beginner in fly fishing, I remember the variety of gear and terminology used by experienced fly fishers was overwhelming.
Tippet? Gravel guards? Midges? I had no idea what these things were and whether I needed them.
Over time, I figured out what gear is important, and I've helped a lot of people get started in fly fishing.
You can pick the right fly-fishing gear, save money, and learn how to fly fish. I'm going to show you how.
In this article, I'm going to:
If you look at pictures of experienced fly fishers or walk into a fly shop without any idea of what you need to get started fly fishing, you might end up with an empty checking account and a bag of stuff you can't make sense of.
I went through my gear the other day and counted 32 different pieces of gear, tools, and accessories. And that's not including flies. Just look at all this stuff!
You don't need 32 things to begin fly fishing. You need 7.
There are of course some pieces of fly-fishing gear a beginner cannot do without.
Then there are a bunch of nice-to-haves, accessories, tools, and more that you'll collect as you grow in the sport.
Some of those nice-to-haves may turn out to be necessities, depending on your situation.
Others are undoubtedly luxuries that you’re welcome to use as a beginner but by no means will make or break a successful day on the water.
Let’s start with the absolute bare minimum necessities. Here are the 7 pieces of gear you need to begin fly fishing.
It doesn’t matter where or when you’re fishing, you can’t fly fish without the seven pieces of gear listed above.
The rod and reel are the heart of every fly fishers’ gear. You can buy them separately, but you can also find high-quality outfits or combos that will have, at the least, a rod and reel already paired for you.
In addition to the rod and reel, some outfits come complete with everything except the leader, tippet, and fly.
If you decide to go this route, buying an outfit can dramatically simplify your initial gear shopping.
Typically fly-fishing outfits are designed for beginners like yourself.
Buying an outfit will save you the hassle of learning how to pick a rod and reel to match your line weight.
Here are my three favorite fly-fishing outfits for beginners. Each comes with a fly rod, fly reel, backing, fly line, and leader.
All that's left to get is some tippet and flies and you're good to go.
Beginner Fly Fishing Outfits
The Sage Foundation Outfit is an expensive beginner's fly-fishing set at $650 but if you're planning on doing a fair amount of fly fishing, you won't have to upgrade for a very long time (if ever).
My son uses an older version of this outfit and I've fished with it too. When I bring people fly fishing for the first time, this is what I put in their hands.
Temple Fork Outfitters (TFO) has two different outfits, and this is the more expensive of the two.
TFO has a long history of providing good value for fly fishing gear without spending a fortune. If you look across their range of fly rods, the most expensive rod they carry is just under $400.
If I have any reservations about an outfit from TFO, it would be that they're not known for their reels.
If I was a beginner on a budget this would be a no-brainer. If you don't know Orvis, you soon will.
Orvis is the alpha and the omega in fly fishing.
The Orvis Encounter Outfit is the least expensive and Orvis stands firmly behind everything they sell. I know because my first four rods were Orvis.
Over the years, I broke every one of them. And every time, Orvis replaced the broken parts for free.
If you don't want to start fly fishing with an outfit, here's how to choose your components.
Choosing a fly rod is the most important decision you can make as a beginner. But that doesn't mean you have to buy a brand-new, expensive fly rod.
There are plenty of great value rods for beginners just getting into fly fishing.
If you want a higher quality setup than an outfit will give you, I recommend spending between $200 and $400 for your fly rod as a beginner.
This price range will allow you to be introduced to the sport without the frustration of poor-quality gear.
To a beginner, fly rods look a lot like any conventional fishing rod. Fly rods however are longer, lighter weight, and more flexible.
You shouldn’t plan on using any old fishing rod for fly fishing. You’re going to need a fly-fishing rod.
Just because you need a fly rod doesn’t mean you have to spend a fortune. If you want to buy something new, here are my three favorites:
Best Beginner Fly Fishing Rods:
If I was a beginner, I would choose the Douglas LRS. Douglas has made some incredible in-roads in recent years, winning a variety of fly rod shootouts.
This rod is safe for saltwater, with corrosion-resistant parts, and of course fresh water. It's also made with components generally found in higher levels rods, like Fuji guides.
Anytime there are beginner fly rod discussions, Orvis is going to be in the mix. The Clearwater is their classic line.
My first four, yes four, fly rods were Orvis Clearwater so I can attest that they will get you through several years of fishing before you're ready to upgrade.
Echo is another brand that's always in the mix in discussions about fly rods for beginners.
Alongside TFO, Echo does a good job of offering something fishable before you get down into the frustratingly cheap rods (like Eagle Claw and Shakespeare).
If you're the type of person that wants a high-end fly rod as a beginner, the best you're going to come by are here on Outfishers.
Outfishers doesn't carry many of the value-based fly rods, but all our fly rods are very high quality.
You can buy high-quality fly rods here for less because they're used.
The value Outfishers provides used fly rod buyers is our lifetime warranty, 30-day return period, free shipping, and TradeOut™ guarantee.
I'm trying not to toot our own horn here but you’re simply not going to find these benefits on any rod you buy off eBay or Craigslist.
If you want to gamble a bit to try to save a bit more money, you might be able to find a needle in the proverbial eBay and Craigslist haystacks. Just keep in mind you may not have recourse for return if you get a lemon.
Fly reels are significantly simpler than conventional fishing reels.
They have shorter handles, less moving internal parts, and are designed to allow you to cast and retrieve your fly line.
This is different from a conventional (i.e., spinning or bait caster) fishing reel so you're going to need a reel specifically for fly fishing.
Best Beginner Fly Fishing Reels:
The best reel of these three, the Lamson Liquid is the best beginner fly reel on the market.
Lamson’s are well known for being lightweight and the Liquid falls in line with that reputation. As with each of the other reels, there’s a market for these used reals (we’ll buy them).
Produced alongside the Clearwater rods, the Clearwater reel is one step above the Echo Ion in quality.
It’s a large arbor reel that can widen its use as you progress towards different species in your fly fishing.
The Echo Ion is a good place to start with a fly-fishing reel. It’s got all the basics you need like a positive position click-drag, alloy construction, and a warranty.
And it's valuable enough that if you find fly fishing isn’t for you, you can sell it on eBay.
There are four parts to the fishing line on a fly reel. I know, four sounds ridiculous.
I mean, how much string do you need just to hook a trout? Let me explain.
Your tippet is what you tie your fly on to at one end.
The end of your tippet ties to your leader which ties to your fly line which ties to your backing.
At each tie point, there are a variety of specific knots that work well and are generally accepted.
The backing is the first part of the fishing line and is the only line that will be attached directly to your reel arbor.
The rest of the fishing line will attach to other pieces of the fly line itself. The purpose of the backing is to widen the circumference of the reel arbor.
This will allow you to reel the line in faster because each revolution of the reel will consume more line.
The remainder of the fly line is usually about 80 feet in length. So, if you have a fish that is running with your line, you’ll need the length of the backing to spool off so you don’t lose the fish.
There are only a few makers of high-quality fly line backing and if you stick to one of the well-known brand names, chances are you’ll be fine.
Best Beginner Fly Fishing Backing
Rio is part of a larger fly-fishing conglomerate called Far Bank Enterprises. Far Bank owns Sage, Redington, and Rio.
They manufacture and distribute nearly anything related to fly fishing and as such have access to a wide talent pool that continuously churns out outstanding products, including Rio’s fly lines, and backing.
Scientific Anglers has been around since 1945. They were a part of 3M for a long time which led to the innovative development of several fly-fishing products.
I can only imagine having the brainpower, patent library, and resources of 3M to develop fly fishing gear. 3M sold Scientific Anglers to Orvis in 2013.
These two brands are the only brands I ever use for backing or fly lines. In either case, the minimal 100 yards length and 20 lb test is probably going to suffice for most beginners fly fishing in domestic rivers, streams, and lakes.
The fly line attaches to the backing. The fly line carries your cast forward.
In conventional or spin fishing, the weight of the lure or bait carries the fishing line forward. Not so in fly fishing.
In fly fishing, the weight of the LINE carries your cast forward since the fly, leader, and tippet are too light to carry the cast themselves.
As is the case with backing, I depend on Rio and Scientific Anglers for fly lines but to be fair there are a host of high-quality fly line manufacturers.
The variety of fly lines is also dramatically greater than with backing. There are fly lines for every type of fly fishing you can imagine and they vary by all kinds of situational needs including:
Like anything, you can go down a rabbit hole here and get as detailed and specific as you want. But for beginners, there are several good general-purpose fly lines. Here are my favorite:
Best Beginner Fly Fishing Lines
The WF stands for weight-forward which describes the taper profile of the fly line. In my experience, even for beginners, you can benefit from packing a bunch of weight at the front of your fly line. This makes casting easier.
The SA technology in this fly line makes it ideal for cold weather conditions. Often in cold weather, fly lines will become stiff and less flexible which can impede your casting.
The Aircel manufacturing in this line prevents some degree of that. So if you think you'll fish in colder climates, this is the one for you.
Again, the Orvis Clearwater line delivers a solution for beginners in fly lines in addition to the rest of the Clearwater line.
I can't say that I think it's worth the extra ten dollars but if you're an Orvis enthusiast, have at it.
Keep in mind these are beginner-level fly lines.
If you’re the type of person that wants to start with something other than beginner-level gear, you can upgrade to any of these brands' higher-priced fly lines.
Your leader connects to your fly line.
The leader tapers from its initial thickness down to a very thin material towards the end.
The purpose of the leader is to begin the transition into a presentable fly that will land softly on the water.
There are so many variations of leaders.
If the terms euro-nymphing and French slow-action aren’t familiar to you, you’re in the right place.
The following three leaders are great general all-purpose leaders for beginning fly fishers.
Best Beginner Fly Fishing Leaders
This Rio line is my favorite all-around leader. I pick some up routinely in my local fly shop and prefer its lack of memory and ease of tying.
The SA Freshwater line is a close second to Rio in my experience.
The butt section, closest to the rod, is thicker and longer than most lines but the advantage for SA has always been in their material science.
According to Orvis, this stuff has the highest knotted strength of any leader on the market.
Keep in mind, those results come from testing in very controlled environments.
All bets are off when you get out in the elements, casting through brush and over rocks.
Nonetheless, Orvis makes an above-average quality line. Don't be afraid to give it a try.
A couple of notes:
First, Orvis sells a looped leader and tippet combination that saves the user from having to tie the tippet.
I’ve used this and while it works and works well, I would not recommend beginners use this system.
Here’s why.
No other leader or tippet is compatible with this pre-looped system.
If you’re out on a river and run out of these tippets and need to use another brand or borrow a different brand from a friend, you’ll need to know how to tie tippets to the leader.
Second, just like your rods and reels, you’ll need to specify your line weight when choosing your leader and tippet.
It matters to your cast so pay attention and buy the matching weight.
Third, when choosing the length of the leader, I typically recommend that beginner fly fishers use 9 ft. long leaders if they’re fishing smaller waters and 12 ft. only if you’re fishing big rivers.
As a beginner, you’re still going to be learning how to handle your line. So, make it easy on yourself, and pick a leader length that you can keep under control, like a 9ft.
Your tippet is your final piece of line.
The tippet comes in a variety of lengths and thicknesses.
Tippet is the ultimate finesse point that delivers a stealthy and soft landing of the fly on the water.
Tippet is inexpensive and doesn’t vary much in quality or material across the top manufacturers.
But it is HIGHLY important because the tippet is what delivers the fly to the water.
It needs to have very little line memory, be extremely lightweight, strong, and nearly invisible.
There are two basic types of material tippet comes in: nylon and fluorocarbon.
As a beginner, the choice of tippet material is unlikely to affect your fishing.
Nylon is less expensive at roughly 1/3 of the cost of fluorocarbon.
For you, I’m going to keep all the recommendations here nylon.
If you’re the type of person that likes to use higher quality gear right from the beginning, you can try fluorocarbon.
Here are the three tippets I recommend beginners start fly fishing with:
Best Beginner Fly Fishing Tippets
We're splitting hairs at this point because the difference between each of these three top tippets is very small.
I've personally had better luck with the Orvis tippet not pig-tailing, which is code for spiraling up when you go to tie a fly on.
It also comes in a crazy-wide range of options from 0X to 8X.
Now that Orvis owns the Scientific Anglers brand, there's an increasingly smaller difference between the two but this tippet has some leftover patents from the 3M days of Scientific Angler which seems to give the line a slightly softer feel.
Rio's always has a good line and their Powerflex tippet is no exception.
The company purposefully colors the tippet in a muddy grey that supposedly camouflages the tippet.
I can't vouch for that improving your chances of landing a fish but it can't hurt.
Yes! After all that time and expense, it's finally time to tie a fly on.
So, here's the scoop on flies. I can't recommend a single fly that you can pick up, go out, and catch fish with.
The fly is determined by the environment, the weather, the stream, and a variety of other factors.
What I can do is point you to some basic concepts about fly choice and link you to a few good starter packs.
The best piece of advice about flies I received as a beginner fly fisherman was this: Start fishing with the biggest ugliest thing in your fly box and work your way down to the smallest and most natural-looking bug.
The theory is that if the fish are feeding aggressively they may go after something like a wooly bugger but if all else fails, nymphing will usually catch you something.
Now, for beginner fly sets the only two I trust that have a broad enough set of flies to stretch across most conditions in North America are the following from Orvis:
Best Beginner Fly Fishing Fly Sets
My only hesitancy about these collections is that they're expensive.
If you go to your local fly shop, you will almost undoubtedly get equal quality flies with more localized patterns and quite possibly less expensive.
This brings me to my next point: The importance of fly shops.
With all the guidance above, it might seem simple to go online, choose your gear, watch some YouTube videos, and cast your line.
And you're right, that can be done.
But another way to gear up AND gain local knowledge is to find your local fly shop and stop in.
I'm not going to give you the 'buy local' speech. Shopping local here matters because it's valuable to you, not because it's altruistic. Here's why.
Fly shop owners, employees, and guides are a treasure trove of information about what to fish, when to fish, what flies to use, local regulations, and getting geared up properly.
Even if you don't buy your gear at your local fly shop, I highly recommend you get your fly reel and line set up in a fly shop for two reasons:
The variety of knots in the backing, line, leader, and tippet and initial complexity may be more than you want to handle as a beginner.
Folks working in fly shops have tons of experience. So, in addition to getting your reel set up properly, introduce yourself and let them know you’re just a beginner.
They may have tips about what flies to cast, where to go, local regulations, and all sorts of other fly-fishing knowledge that will be tough to come across anywhere else.
Alright, that's it. These seven essentials are all you need to catch a fish.
1,000 situations may call for more than these pieces of gear. I want to offer a little perspective on some of those items for you.
Just to reiterate, the items I discuss below are not 100% needed to go fly fishing and have an enjoyable time.
They are wants, not needs.
These items will, however, find their way into your arsenal if you decide to follow through in the sport so take note either way.
The purpose of a fishing net is to help you bring in, or 'land', the fish faster and safer.
Any fish in the water may still fight and do everything it can to spit the hook out.
The sooner you have the fish in a net, the less chance there is your hook will come loose and the fish will get away.
The other benefit of a net, which is worth mentioning, is that it's safer for the fish.
Nets help fish by allowing you to hold the fish securely but keep the fish in the water.
Nets also help fish by keeping the fish out of your hands. The more you touch a fish, the more dangerous it is for the fish.
They can catch a disease and if the natural slime of the fish rubs off on your skin, the fish is less protected. So nets are good for fish too.
Now, a net isn't necessary.
When I was young and broke, I fished for several years without a net. Sure, I lost some fish that were able to get off the hook as I was reeling them in.
But I wasn't concerned with keeping or photographing my fish so that didn't bother me.
If you want to keep your fish or get a good look at your fish, a net will help you out significantly.
This is one place where your grandpa's old fishing gear may work just fine.
There's nothing particularly special about fly-fishing nets.
Some are shaped and sized well for trout or other fish or fly fishing situations but if you have a net, chances are it'll work.
If you get into fly fishing, there are some nets I can recommend. Here are two I own.
Best Beginner Fly Fishing Nets
I liked this net a lot because to see how big your fish is, all you have to do is land it in the net.
The natural contour and flexibility of the fish will allow you to measure it and take a picture to show your friends.
But I ripped it after a few years because the material isn't the strongest.
Alright, there's a HUGE price difference between the two.
But I will tell you, get in almost any fly fishing guide's boat and you'll find a fishpond net.
They are awesome. Lightweight, strong, and will last a lifetime. I love mine. But it isn't cheap.
A fly box is nothing more than a container to help organize, protect, and keep your flies.
If you order flies off the internet or buy some flies at your local shop, you'll probably receive a clear fly 'puck' or 'cup'.
You can also get cheap fly boxes for a few dollars, used fly boxes from family, friends, or eBay.
Lastly, you can buy expensive fly boxes made of exotic woods and fancily carved.
Many fly fishers have more than one fly box and separate their flies by types into different boxes: midges in one box, streamers in another, dry flies in a third, etc.
I go that route. I find it easier to carry small boxes that fit in the front chest pocket of my shirt.
Of course, after a while my fly boxes get all mingled with streamers, dries, and midges need a re-org. Like this.
But I know plenty of fishers that have massive fly boxes with multiple layers.
Either way, here's an inexpensive but decent starter box variety from Amazon.
Best Beginner Fly Fishing Boxes
I have several of these boxes and they're fine. What you're looking for in a fly box, if all else fails, is for the thing to stay closed and hold your flies. This will do just fine.
I thought I'd throw the Swanson fly boxes at you in case you're a vanity type of person.
These fly boxes are more like gifts for passionate fly fishers than something you'd want to bang around the inside of your truck.
But I just couldn't help myself, they're so damn pretty!
Some fly fishers would put waders in the must-have section of gear but there are some situations that you may find yourself fishing in when you don't need them. Let me explain.
Waders are meant to keep you dry while you're fishing.
If you're going fishing for the first time in a cold environment, you're probably going to want a pair.
But if you're fishing in a warmer climate, or you're fishing from a boat, or even from the shoreline or shallow water, you may not want a pair of waders.
In the summer, I commonly wear a pair of quick-drying shorts and 'wet wade' as they call it.
The only downside I find is that if my exposed legs are above the water, I can get a fair amount of bug bites.
But depending on the water temperature, it's the most comfortable way to stay cool. In the spring, fall, or winter I almost always wear waders.
When it comes to waders, I would recommend that you splurge a little here. If you're going to invest in fly fishing enough to drop a few hundred bucks on some waders, do it once and do it right.
The three best names when it comes to waders are Simms, Patagonia, and Orvis.
There's a second-level wader quality in Redington, Frogg Togg, and Hodgman. If you stay within these brands, you'll be alright.
I don't recommend Cabela's, Bass Pro, or other store brands and nor do I recommend waders you can only find on Amazon and nowhere else.
Those are typically knock-off designs from better brands and you won't stand a chance at a warranty claim if and when they start to leak.
I need to address two important debates about waders. There is no right or wrong answer here, merely preferences.
First, waders come in both stocking-foot and boot-foot.
Stocking-foot waders have neoprene socks sewn on the feet that require an additional purchase of wading boots to be worn on your feet.
Boot-foot waders come with boots sewn onto the feet of the wader and require no additional equipment.
Most fly fishers prefer stocking-foot waders with separately purchased wading boots.
They're more comfortable, tougher, and provide better traction when wading through streams, assuming you get a decent boot.
I have always fished stocking-foot waders for the above reasons.
Second, waders come in both hip and chest height.
You might have a hard time finding stocking-foot hip waders as they aren't common.
Again, most fly fishers prefer chest waders. They simply provide more versatility as you can get into deeper water and stay dry.
I had a pair of boot foot hip waders in my teens, and they worked fine for a while.
But knowing how I planned on fishing more, I went ahead and invested in stocking-foot chest waders when they were worn out.
Best Beginner Fly Fishing Waders:
Simms is THE name in fly fishing waders. I've never owned any other brand of chest waders. They're comfortable, breathable, and Simms has (in most people's opinions including mine) a great warranty and repair reputation.
Come on, by now you had to have known that Orvis was going to make a quality entry-level wader and call it Clearwater.
I have not worn these but know some people that have been happy with them.
There are less expensive Frogg Toggs but I'd stick with these for the functionality of the front pockets.
Fly fishing footwear falls right alongside the logic for and against waders.
Fly fishing footwear is designed to protect your feet, grip the riverbed, and make wading more comfortable.
To accomplish these goals, most fly fishers wear wading boots. I, for example, wear a pair of Simms G3 Guide Boots.
They're large and heavy. I even wear them in the summer because they aren't waterproof.
The second part of fly-fishing footwear is gravel guards. Gravel guards are neoprene material that bridges your legs and your wading boots.
They prevent gravel, pebbles, sand, and all the river grit from getting down in your boots.
When I'm wet wading, I wear my wading boots and gravel guards.
One important note about wading boots: They come in felt or rubber soles.
In terms of grip, felt bottom boots are great.
But felt bottoms are also illegal in many places now because bacteria and other living organisms can get caught in the felt and transported from one body of water to the next.
In terms of versatility, rubber bottom boots are the way to go. They are legal everywhere and they last longer than felt bottoms.
Best Fly Fishing Wading Boots for Beginners
These are hands down the best entry-level wading boot out there.
I do realize that at $130, it's a bit of a stretch to call these 'beginner' or 'entry-level' but if you're the type of person that likes to go for higher-quality gear right from the outset, these boots are tough to beat.
My son has spent all day wading up and down the Bitterroot River in them without complaint.
The Orvis Encounter boots are another great place to start. Wading boots can feel tight over a pair of neoprene wader socks but Orvis recently widened these boots to be more comfortable.
If you've got wide feet, give these a shot.
If there's a common complaint about wading boots, it's that they're heavy, bulky, and clumsy feeling. Not so with the Redington Benchmarks.
These are lightweight and soft. If you're going to be hiking or walking for extended periods in your wading boots, you might want to consider these.
One last option I'll throw at you.
If you're in a pinch, you can stop at your local Walmart, pick up the cheapest pair of high-top basketball shoes, and make them work.
It's not ideal obviously because the soles can get very slick and they don't offer much support.
But if you're wading in streams with a gravel bed, they'll get you through a few days.
Polarization on sunglasses removes a lot of the glare off of the water. This in turn allows you to see better into the water as you look for fish.
Polarized sunglasses aren't cheap. So if you don't want to spring a hundred bucks for a pair of Costa's, do yourself a favor and pick up some non-polarized gas station cheapies to fish in.
If you are in the mood to spend some serious money on a nice pair of polarized sunglasses for your next fly fishing trip, you can’t go wrong with any of Costa’s sport shades.
Sunglasses are a key piece of safety gear in fly fishing.
During casting, lines and hooks fly around in the air.
If you're around other fishers, the air space can get crowded and in case one of those hooks gets cast towards your eyes, your sunglasses will keep a hook out.
One of my favorite guides insists on his clients wearing glasses of some sort and even goes so far as to carry a bunch of cheapies around in case his client doesn't have a pair of shades.
If you plan to fish for any length of time, a pack or a vest to store, place, and hold your gear accessories may be a good idea.
One feature I want to be sure to point out to you is waterproofness. I've had packs that are and aren't waterproof.
If you're going to be advancing in fly fishing, I would choose to get a waterproof pack.
There is no downside to the waterproof packs and I promise you that if you plan to fish for years to come, you're going to run into situations where you want to take something with you that you don't want wet like your phone or a sandwich.
Fishing packs come in a variety of forms including backpacks, sling packs (i.e. over one shoulder), and fanny or hip packs.
The choice between these three is your personal preference.
I've owned all three. Here are my thoughts.
Backpacks can hold more gear, slings slightly less, and a hip pack holds just the basics.
Lastly, I use a Patagonia backpack on longer day trips or overnight camping trips.
I also use my backpack as a carry-on bag when I'm flying to and from fishing locations.
I use a Simms hip pack for days when I'll be fishing for 3-4 hours.
It's enough room to pack a small water bottle, some snacks, and the variety of small fishing accessories you're likely to acquire if you continue fly fishing like fly floatant, nippers, pliers, fly boxes, and more.
I've tried sling packs and I didn't care for the asymmetry of the weight on one shoulder. Sorry, no recommendations here.
Just uncomfortable hips and shoulders at a days end but your experience may be different.
Vests are the other category of wearables that will hold your gear while you're on the water.
Decades ago, vests were the standard for carrying fly fishing accessories. In the past twenty years or so, packs have taken their place as the preferable way to carry fishing gear for many.
Vests accomplish much of the same tasks as a pack, albeit with less space but more accessibility with your accessories attached directly to your chest.
I wore a Simms vest until I was about 20 years old. I switched to packs and never went back to vests. But again, it's just a personal choice.
So do you need a pack or a vest to begin fly fishing? No. They're simply a way to carry stuff.
If you have a backpack of any sort, it'll do. It may get wet, but it'll hold your stuff just as well as any fishing-specific pack.
I think you know what a hat is and why it's useful. The only reason I want to mention it specifically is that I consider it a safety piece.
If you're in a boat or proximity to other people fishing, there's going to be lines and hooks swinging around through the air.
You'd rather have a hook in your hat than your scalp. The same goes for a collared shirt or jacket and your neck.
I personally just stick with a baseball-style hat.
My father fishes with a classic fisherman's bucket hat.
And still yet, have a friend that fishes with one of those safari netted hats that keeps the burning sun off his pale skin.
It's just personal preference here.
The only consideration aside from personal preference you might want to think about is color.
Fish have pretty good eyesight. So avoid bright unnatural colors like hunter orange, or fire engine red.
There's a reason most fishing gear is some shade of grey, blue, or green. Stick with those colors and you'll be fine.
If you're going to stay with fly fishing, you'll probably eventually want pliers or forceps to remove hooks from the mouth of your fish.
What's wrong with your fingers?
Well, nothing. But advanced fly fishers use either of these tools for two reasons.
First, sometimes hooks get swallowed fairly deep by the fish.
To quickly remove the hook and do the least harm to the fish, a thin pair of forceps with allow you to reach down the fish's throat and remove the hook safely.
Second, the less you touch a fish with your hands, the safer it is for the fish.
Your hands remove the protective slimy coat of the fish and can carry bacteria and viruses.
I have both pliers and forceps. I use forceps for small fish and pliers for the big ones.
I can't honestly recommend a pair of pliers or forceps.
The tools made specifically for fly fishing are just ridiculously priced and overengineered for 95% of fly fishers, let alone beginners.
Trust me, I own a pair of really expensive fishing pliers and I have half a notion to sell them on eBay.
I simply don't use them in a way that justifies their cost.
If you're just in the mood to blow some dough, there's plenty of them out there even up to the $200 mark.
But a cheap pair of needlenose pliers from the hardware store will honestly work just as well.
Save some money here for something else.
The most useful and least expensive tool in your arsenal. Tie a pair on a string and tie it to your pack or vest.
When you're standing in the middle of the stream and tie a new fly on, nippers will cut the excess line quickly and easily.
Here, I have the same message as I do about pliers.
There are some crazy-expensive nippers out there for sale.
And again, I've used them before. And again, they're just not worth it.
Grab a pair for $3 from Walgreens and move on.
The only thing you want to look for is a pair with a hole on the end to tie a string through, so you don't drop them in the water.
But even if you do, here's a secret: most fly-fishing guides don't even use these things.
They just bite off the excess line with their teeth.
These snazzy little doohickeys are nothing more than fancy safety nets.
Attach a zinger to your shirt, belt loop, vest, or pack and the other end to your nippers, pliers, or forceps.
When you need to use your tool, pull it. When you're done, let it go. You'll never drop and lose your gear in the water.
Do you need these? No. Are they helpful? Yep. And this is a place where I would spend some money. So here are two choices.
Best Fly Fishing Retractors for Beginners
Fishpond doesn't have a broad product lineup but what they do, they do well. These retractors are no exception. I have a few of these and they've stood the test of time, holding up to thousands of pulls.
I've also used these and they worked for two or three years before the spring inside gave out. But at less than half the price of the FishPond Arrowhead Retractor, you might want to consider these if you're looking for a place to save a few bucks.
So there is the most long-winded exhaustive list of gear and recommendations for anyone that’s just beginning fly fishing.
I want to be clear that these recommendations are for you if you plan on continuously fishing as a hobby.
If, on the other hand, you are simply going on a one-time fishing trip, these recommendations probably aren’t the best for you.
This gear is expensive and often you can rent much of it from a guide or fly shop for a one-time trip.
But if you’re serious about fly fishing, you won’t go wrong with any of the gear listed here.
What did I leave off?
What should be here that isn’t?
And what did I list that you have a different opinion about?
Let me know, I’m always interested in what other fly fishers have to say.
]]>When I take beginners fly fishing, I always get asked to explain fly rod weight.
You don't need a college degree in fly rod engineering to get fly rod weights right.
You do need a basic understanding of how these fly weights and sizes work together though so you can select the right fly fishing setup for yourself.
Here I'm going to share some history of fly rod weights and how to choose the best fly rod weight for your fly fishing situation.
]]>It's easy to understand why people get confused about fly rod weights. After all, there are line weights, reel weights, rod weights, and fly sizes.
When I take beginners fly fishing, I always get asked to explain fly rod weight.
You don't need a college degree in fly rod engineering to get fly rod weights right.
But you do need a basic understanding of how these fly weights and sizes work together though so you can select the right fly fishing setup for yourself.
Here I'm going to share some history of fly rod weights and how to choose the best fly rod weight for your fly fishing situation.
Before I start, I want you to know these are some very broad generalizations.
The choice of fly rod length and weight varies by species and location very specifically.
So while I've tried to provide some guidance for you, I want you to think of these suggestions as starting points or anchors from which you can upsize or downsize your choice of fly rod to meet your fishing needs.
Fly Rod weight refers to the strength of the fly rod. The higher the fly rod weight, the stronger the fly rod.
Fly Rod weights range from 1 to 15 but typical fly shops will carry fly rod weights between 3 and up to 11, if you are shopping in a fly shop near big waters.
The higher the fly rod weight, the larger the fish and bigger water you're fishing, the longer the rod and heavier fly rod weight you'll need.
In fly fishing, fly rod weights are used to match a fly line, a fly reel, and a fly rod to the species and fishing environment.
As a rule of thumb, weights are supposed to match the line to the reel to the rod.
For example, a 5-weight rod should have a 5-weight reel loaded with a 5-weight fly line.
Fly rod weights merely reference fly line weight.
So the real question is 'How are fly line weights measured?'.
Fly line weights are measured in grains, a unit of weight measurement dating back to medieval times and wheat grains.
I'll skip the history lesson but just for perspective, 1 grain is 0.065 grams so 1 gram is 15.38 grains.
After World War II, production of fly rods increased and fly line manufacturing was not uniform. Consumers found it difficult to match line with rod and reel.
In 1959, AFFTA (the American Fly Fishing Trade Association), published fly line weight standards.
The goal was to have a 5-weight line of one manufacturer match another manufacturers rod or reel.
Today, AFFTA still publishes the Standard Line Weights to maintained standards for fly line grain weights. Here's the most recent version of those standards.
In their own words, AFFTA creates and maintains industry standards to help manufacturers comply with tolerances, and to help retailers provide customers with well-matched equipment and components.
The weights of the various fly lines (1-15) are provided both in grains and grams. The weight is the measurement of the first 30' of a fly line.
The idea here originally was that the average fly rod cast was 30'. So AFFTA used 30 feet beyond the tip of the rod to measure how much line weighed.
Then manufacturers produce fly rods and reels in weights that cast best with those weight of lines.
In short, there’s no standard measure of power in fly rod manufacturing.
So a 5-weight fly rod by one manufacturer will not produce the same cast as another manufacturer’s 5-weight fly rod.
Over time, fly rod manufacturer’s have developed proprietary methods of determining what weight a fly rod is.
But the average fly fisher has changed. For decades fly fishing rods have been getting stiffer and more powerful.
Fly fishers want to cast further and easier. To do this, manufacturers have slowly evolved how they make rods.
The challenge is that fly rod manufacturers all have different methods of determining what weight a fly rod is.
So while there is an industry standard that is followed for fly line, fly rods and reels are not standard.
This is important to remember when choosing a fly rod weight.
This doesn’t mean you should ignore matching a line with a rod and reel. But it does mean you should never blindly accept the weight matching principle.
When choosing a fly rod, reel, and line, matching their weights is a starting point.
If, however, you don’t like how the fly rod weight setup feels, don’t hesitate to try different weights. This is called overlining or underlining your fly rod.
Overlining a fly rod is when you use a heavier weight line than your rod weight.
For example, if you put a 6-weight line on a 5-weight rod, you’re overlining the fly rod.
I’ve never seen any reason to overline a rod one or at very most two weights above your fly rod.
If you have to because that’s all you have, it may work. But as a standard of practice, overlining is generally discussed in terms of one fly line weight above your fly rod weight.
Remember that in fly fishing, as opposed to spinner fishing, the weight of the line and NOT the fly or lure carries the cast forward.
But what if your fly rod feels heavy relative to your line? What if you can’t feel the fly rod load your line or you’re unable to get very accurate with your cast because your fly line seems too light?
Overlining is a great way to help solve three casting challenges.
First, if you’re fishing a stiff, fast rod, you may not be able to feel your line loading. For beginners, it’s important that you can feel that load to time the cast properly and deliver the full length of your line to your target.
Second, if you’re fishing in a situation that calls for a shorter line or leader length, a heavier line will help carry your fly forward.
Lastly, wind can make it difficult to cast. If you’re using a lighter weight rod, like a 5-weight or less, your casting might benefit from a heavier line that can better punch through windy conditions.
Underlining a fly rod is just the opposite of overlining. Underlining a fly rod means you use a lighter weight line than your rod weight.
For example, if you put a 4-weight line on a 5-weight rod, you’re underlining the fly rod.
There aren’t many practical applications of underlining a fly rod for the beginner and even intermediate angler.
But in specific advanced situations, underlining a fly rod can give you the ability to cast at shorter distances more accurately if you’re using a slow rod (i.e. a fly rod that doesn’t flex or bend as much relative to other fly rods).
Casting with an underlined rod setup can take some practice.
If you’re interested in seeing how underlining your fly rod impacts your casting, do this at home in your backyard before you try it out on the water.
While fly lines are standardized, the standards still provide enough wiggle room to make overlining or underlining tricky. Here's why (fair warning: this is a gravity-sucking black rabbit hole of detailed information):
The AFFTA chart dictates that a freshwater 5-weight line should be between 134 and 146 grains (or 8.7 to 9.4 grams).
If we look at a popular fly line 5-weight, we can see where in this range the actual weight falls.
Scientific Anglers 5-weight Amplitude Trout, for example, weighs 140 grains in it's first 30 feet. That's right in the middle of AFFTA's 134-146 5-weight range.
Scientific Anglers 5-weight Amplitude Infinity, on the other hand, weighs 150 grains in it's first 30 feet. That's 4 grains over the maximum AFFTA standard of 146 grains for a 5-weight line.
Here's the challenge with the fly line weight standards.
1. The overweight choice pre-overlines a weight-matching rod.
If you buy a 5-weight rod and reel and then setup the Amplitude Infinity 5-weight at 150 grains on your rod, you're already overlining because your fly line weight is between a 5-weight ceiling of 146 grains and a 6-weight line floor of 152 grains per AFFTA's standards.
2. If you choose to overline your weight-matching rod, you're now overlining your rod by more than you think.
If you buy a 5-weight rod and reel and then setup the Amplitude Infinity 6-weight in an attempt to overline your rod, you've now overlined your rod to nearly a 7-weight line at 175 grains with a minimum of 177 grains per the AFFTA standard. This can cause casting problems like slapping a flies landing, for example.
3. If you choose to underline your 5 weight-matching rod, you're now only matching the rod weight.
Per AFFTA, the maximum weight for a 4-weight is 126 grains and the minimum weight for a 5-weight is 134 grains. But the Amplitude Infinity 4-weight stands at 130 grains, between the standard for a 4-weight and a 5-weight.
Before I go bagging on Scientific Anglers, I want to point out two things.
First, I love Scientific Angler's products.
Second, and more importantly, the company is overweighting their line for good reason.
Fly rods are being manufactured increasingly fast. Fast rods tend to cast better with heavier line.
So Scientific Angler is trying to help you cast better by selling you the heaviest possible line they can barely within industry standards.
I also want to note that other Scientific Angler fly lines, like their Amplitude Trout line, are spot on AFFTA standards.
Scientific Angler is just one of many fly line manufacturer's that practice this overweighting with some regularity.
The key idea here is that before you go overlining or underlining your fly rod weight, do a little research about the fly line you're buying and whether or not you'll be setting up with your intented weight.
The AFFTA fly line weight standards don't compensate for your inherently fast or slow fly rod.
1. Start with your rod and reel weight.
2. Understand what the grain weight of your fly line is that you have presently setup.
3. Research the fly line weight you're thinking of buying for your rod and understand where it falls in relation to the grain weight of your existing fly line.
4. If the change from your current fly line weight to the next fly line of your choice will truly increase the weight by 1x, then proceed with the purchase.
5. If the change from your current fly line weight to the next fly line of your choice won't increase the weight by 1x or increases the grain weight of your fly line by more than 1x, just be aware that this may cause your casting issues.
To be fair, 2x'ing the weight may not cause you any issues but if you're having casting problems after putting on a new heavier line, your fly line weight would be a good starting point to figure out your problem.
The myriad of choices from general purpose fly rods to euro-nymphing specialty rods knows no bounds.
If there’s a market for it, chances are one of the fly rod manufacturers makes it.
Maybe you prefer and can afford to buy a wide variety of fly rods for very specific fly-fishing situations.
Or maybe you’re looking for one general all-purpose rod that can cover 80% of the situations you’ll find yourself fishing.
Either way I’ve got you covered.
I’ve put together the Fly Rod Weight Chart below.
If you know what fish you’re fishing for and you know where you’ll be fishing, this fly rod weight chart is for you.
1. Find your target fish in the first column. For example, let’s say trout.
2. Now find your fishing environment in the first row. For example, let’s a say a medium sized river.
Answer: Your starting point for a fly rod is a 9’ 5-weight rod.
Note I use the word starting point. The information in the chart is just that, a starting point. You should be just fine using a rod close to the chart’s recommended starting point.
Environment | ||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lakes and Ponds | Small Stream | Medium Rivers | Large Rivers | Beaches | Saltwater Flats | Offshore | ||
Fish Species | Trout | 8' 4-Wt. | 7' 3-Wt. | 9' 5-Wt. | 9' 6-Wt. | |||
Panfish | 8' 4-Wt. | 9' 5-Wt. | 9' 5-Wt. | |||||
Bass | 9' 6-Wt. | 9' 5-Wt. | 9' 5-Wt. | 9' 7-Wt. | ||||
Steelhead | 11' 7-Wt. | 11' 7-Wt. | 13' 8-Wt. | |||||
Bonefish | 9' 9-Wt. | 9' 8-Wt. | ||||||
Salmon | 10' 8-Wt. | 13' 9-Wt. | ||||||
Saltwater | 9' 9-Wt. | |||||||
Big Game | 9' 14-Wt. |
But there are a variety of situations that could call for different rods than the above chart states or you may already have a fly rod that's 'close enough'.
Here are the tolerances from the chart I recommend:
If you already have a rod within these tolerances, there is absolutely no need to buy a new or additional fly rod simply because yours doesn’t exactly fit the chart.
Using a rod outside of these tolerances may still fish just fine.
It simply means that if you had your druthers, I’d recommend using the chart to pick your sized rod.
I don’t like to generalize when it comes to helping someone select a fly rod.
Someone fishing for trout in a small pond in the northeast is going to need a very different rod than someone fishing a big river out west, even though both may be fishing the same species.
But to keep you happy, I’ll give you some starting points.
A 9’ 5-weight fly rod is the best fly rod to catch trout. However, you should know that this can vary by the type of trout and the location where you’re going to be fishing.
For example, if you’re fishing a medium-sized river thats fairly wide open from a drift boat, the 9’ 5-weight will serve your needs just fine.
If, on the other hand, you’re fishing a small mountain stream for small brook trout, you can easily shift down into an 8’ 6" 4-weight.
Or, if you’re fishing a large river in windy conditions for larger trout, you might want a 9’ 6” 6-weight or even a 7-weight rod to really punch those casts long distances.
But for most conditions, a 9’ 5-weight fly rod will be the best fly rod for trout.
A 9’ 6-weight fly rod is the best fly rod to catch bass. Again, this can vary by location.
For lakes and ponds, I prefer to use a 6-weight and in very large lakes known for trophy bass, even up to a 7-weight.
For rivers and streams, I prefer to keep the weight down to a 5-weight.
This is always open to personal preference, but these are just some starting points.
A 10’ 8-weight is the best fly rod to catch salmon.Salmon can vary dramatically in size though from 20 lbs. up to 80 lbs. monsters.
So generalizing across the five most common species of Salmon with one rod is not easy.
Depending on your location, don’t be surprised if a guide hands you a 13’ 10-weight spey rod.
If you’re going Salmon fishing, talk to someone that’s fished the waters you’re targeting or chat with a guide local in that area.
The range of applicable rods to catch salmon on the fly could justify an entire blog post in and of itself.
If you simply can't get enough fly rod weight talk, here's a few more articles:
I’ll sum this article up for you and hit the main points:
If you have any questions or want a personal recommendation for a fly rod, always feel free to reach out to us at help@outfishers.com and we can offer some advice.
]]>When you’re buying a used fly rod, you have three basic options: eBay, Craigslist, and private sellers, none of which are well-suited for buying expensive fly rods.
I experienced first-hand how listings can be wrong, fly rods can be damaged, there are no warranties or returns, and transactions are final.
After buying used fly rods, reels, and other fly-fishing gear for decades, I’ve made a lot of mistakes and finely tuned how to buy used fly rods.
So if I was just setting out to buy a used fly rod, here's what I would want to know.
If there’s so much risk, why buy a used fly rod? Is it really worth the trouble?
There are 5 big differences between buying a new fly rod and buying a used fly rod.Fly rods are expensive. You can save money by buying used fly rods instead of new.
But you’ll still spend at least $100 for a used rod and up to several thousand dollars for a vintage collectable bamboo rod.
The closer a used fly rod is to new condition, the more expensive it will be.
A new condition fly rod generally includes a pristine fly rod, rod tube, sleeve, warranty card, and sometimes even the plastic factory wrapper.
The more a fly rod has been used, the less you should pay for it.
Heavily used fly rods will have blemishes, scuffs, paint chips, dents in the tube, dings on the metal components, a dirty cork, and sometimes repaired or replaced parts.
Here's a comparison of 10 fly rods new and used prices from across the internet.
# | Brand | Model | MSRP | Used | $ Difference | % Difference |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Sage | X | $950 | $760 | $190 | 20% |
2 | Orvis | Recon | $549 | $300 | $249 | 45% |
3 | Scott | G Series | $895 | $700 | $195 | 22% |
4 | G Loomis | NRX+ | $795 | $495 | $300 | 38% |
5 | Echo | Trout | $349 | $120 | $229 | 66% |
6 | Temple Fork Outfitters | Axiom II | $339 | $249 | $90 | 27% |
7 | St. Croix | Mojo Trout | $180 | $150 | $30 | 17% |
8 | Thomas & Thomas | Exocett | $915 | $700 | $215 | 23% |
9 | Winston | Pure | $875 | $600 | $275 | 31% |
10 | Redington | Crux | $419 | $269 | $150 | 36% |
Average | $627 | $434 | $192 | 31% |
Manufacturers are constantly testing and producing fly rods with new technology.
The evolution of fly rods from bamboo to fiberglass to graphite illustrates this. And that evolution will never end.
On the other hand, people have been fishing (and catching fish) for thousands of years. So, while new technology is great and can help you cast further or more accurately, you don’t need the latest gear to catch fish.
In our experience, every 3 to 5 years is an appropriate timespan to update your gear.
That doesn’t mean that you have to buy a new fly rod though. You can buy used fly rods a year or two old and still get a significant upgrade in technology.
When you buy a new fly rod, you’re probably buying from a retailer or dealer that accepts returns.
Some new fly rod retailers offer 30-day returns, some 60-days, and some 90-days.
When you buy a used fly rod, you’re probably buying from an individual or at best a small company, many of which offer no returns.
Outfishers offers 30-day returns but is rare in this regard. You can view our admittedly simple but generous return policy here.
Fly rod manufacturer warranties are typically valid only for the original purchaser.
I don’t know of any manufacturers that honor warranties beyond the first owner of a fly rod. So fly rod warranties aren’t transferable.
If you’ve got a broken tip or lost a rod piece, most manufacturers will repair a used fly rod but they will charge you a fee to do so.
Individual sellers of used fly rods and some secondary dealers don’t offer warranties.
Outfishers is the only retailer I'm aware of that sells used fly rods with a warranty.
No matter how many precautions you take, and inspections you do, there are folks out there whose business practices are shady.
Facebook and eBay both have tools to help buyers judge the sellers reputation.
In eBay, check out the sellers profile. I look for two things that might be a warning sign about a seller.
For example, below is Trident's eBay seller profile. Trident is a used fly rod seller with a solid reputation for high quality transactions.
First, if there are too many negative feedbacks I steer clear. You can't please everyone all the time but if the negative feedback is more than 5% of the total feedback, I look elsewhere. In the above example, Trident's negative feedback is about 2% of their total which is common on eBay for large sellers.
Second, I look to see what kind of seller they are. If the seller has a lot of fly rods for sale, they clearly know what makes a good and bad condition rod.
If the seller is just your average fly fisherman trading out rods, I'm a little more careful, not because I think they're more likely to try to scam a buyer, but because they may not inspect the rod as closely as someone thats in it for business purposes.
In Facebook, you can view a sellers commerce profile. This profile will have a rating based on 5-stars, a list of the other items the person is selling, and a few characteristics they do well.
To be honest, I don't put much creedence into the Facebook commerce profile.
Instead I use PayPal to pay for the product and select the option that it's a good or a service in PayPal. This provides some coverage in case the transaction takes a turn for the worse.
In my experience, most people selling used fly-fishing gear are honest, transparent, and trustworthy. They’re just cleaning out their closet or want to trade up for a better rod.
But buyer beware: there are deceptive, fraudulent, and unscrupulous people out there selling used fly rods.
If you’re at all hesitant about the person you’re dealing with, simply don’t buy from them.
There are plenty of other used fly rods out there from people that you should feel comfortable buying from.
Ok, I'm biased. But I genuinely believe Outfishers has the best offering for used fly rods.
No other seller offers Certified Pre-Owned fly rods, 30-day returns, a buyback guarantee, and a lifetime warranty.
Our Certified Pre-Owned fly rods have gone through a 100+ point inspection, cleaning, a functional stress-testing and are given a rating by component and an overall rating.
eBay is the wild west of used fly rods. There’s no doubt that the number of sellers and inventory on eBay can’t be beat.
You can get a great price on your dream rod if you’re patient. But you can also get taken for a ride.
Lots of eBay sellers are experienced. They know how to hide flaws from photographs of the fly rod.
I once bought a fly rod that looked impeccable only to find 'Captain Andy' painted on the only side of one piece not shown in the listing photos.
They know exactly how to wordsmith the fly rod listing description so you can’t come back to them claiming they misrepresented a product.
They don’t offer returns and you’re not going to get a warranty from the seller.
The best thing you can do to protect yourself if you’re buying a used fly rod on eBay is to check the seller rating, carefully inspect the photographs, and read every detail about the rod and the sellers policies.
Ask the seller the following questions:
Facebook Marketplace is a relative newcomer to online private listings but in our opinion, it’s one of the better options.
Facebook marketplace lets you filter for location, item condition, price, and a few other useful conditions.
Facebook uses your account profile, which are presumably backed by real human beings, as your listing seller identification which provides some degree of accountability above eBay because eBay sellers can be companies or anonymous usernames.
Of course, there’s no guarantee that Facebook profiles are honest, trustworthy sellers but Facebook does a good job policing accounts for unscrupulous activity.
In addition to Facebook Marketplace, Facebook Groups are one of our favorite places to find fly rods.
There are Facebook Groups solely dedicated to buying and selling used fly fishing gear.
Here are my three favorite Facebooks Groups for buying and selling used fly fishing rods, reels, and other gear.
Craigslist can be a great place to find fly rods from individual sellers. Craigslist buyers and sellers are generally listing and searching locally.
It can be cumbersome to sort through Craiglist sites and find what you’re looking for.
One way to solve that problem and find your dream rod is to use a search aggregator that searches all the local Craigslist sites.
Search aggregators let you search hundreds of local markets at one time.
Most Craigslist sellers aren’t’ expecting to ship their items but may be willing to do so if you ask and offer to pay for shipping.
Here are my three favorite Craigslist search aggregators. You should give them a try, I'm always amazed at what I can find here.
There are a handful of websites, like Outfishers, that sell used fly rods as a matter of practice. Aside from Outfishers, the following sites are worth checking out for used fly rods.
TridentFlyFishing.com
Trident has a large selection of used fly rods, but the buying experience is somewhat limited compared to Outfishers. Trident does have a trade-in program, but their used rods don’t come with a warranty and they don’t publish serial numbers.
TightLinesFlyFishing.com
Tight Lines has a small inventory of used fly rods but has a good reputation for being a fair dealer.
Amazon
Calling Amazon a niche sight is a stretch but hear me out.
I’ve heard people say they've found good used fly rods available for sale on Amazon but I have yet to see one.
The screenshot below shows the results of a search for ‘used fly rods’ on Amazon.
The results look more like miscategorized new entry-level rods than purposefully-placed high-quality used rods.
It wouldn’t be surprising to see Amazon increase their presence in the secondary markets for sporting goods but right now, it’s not a strength of the online superstore.
If you choose to buy your fly rod offline, you’ll enjoy a bargain hunt through local stores and word-of-mouth queries.
The biggest advantage to buying a used fly rod in person is you can inspect and test it before you buy it.
Local fly shops are going to see more used fly rods than any other type of store but they don’t always carry any used fly rods in their shop.
Fly shops typically carry new rods and the hassle associated with negotiating a purchase price or trade-in value is not something many fly shop owners are interested in.
If you're lucky, you can make friends with the owner. Let the owner know what you’re looking for in a used fly rod (brand, length, line weight, and of course price) and if they come across one they can give you a call.
Second hand sellers is another way you can successfully buy a used fly rod but it’ll take some work.
Expect to spend a few weekends rummaging through your local Goodwill, pawn shops, or scouring garage sales.
But I know quite a few fly fishers that have scored great deals working their way through these stores.
Last but definitely not least, use your own personal network.
Send out an email to a wide audience of friends and family to see if anyone has a used fly rod they would like to sell.
Co-workers, association members, and all kinds of networks are great for sourcing unexpected deals on used fly rods.
Outfishers has more than one-hundred inspection points we put a used fly rod through before we sell it.
While 100+ points is our standard for selling a rod under our name, you don’t need to perform this formal of an inspection to buy a good used fly rod.
You should inspect the following 10 components of any used fly rod you’re looking at purchasing.
This list is organized by the same components Outfishers rates our used fly rods.
In every one of the 10 components, there are two things to watch out for in any used fly rod.
1. Places where repairs have been made.
2. Components that where customizations have been made.
To be clear, repairs and customizations aren’t necessarily a bad thing.
A well-performed repair or carefully constructed custom rod can be a great used fly rod. But either a repair or a customization warrants a closer inspection.
Feel along the pieces of the rod for any irregular spots. What you’re looking for are any bumps or dips in the body of the rod. This may indicate a repair has been completed or there is a defect in the rod.
Be aware though that some rod blanks are sanded during production and others aren’t. So depending on the bump or dip, there may or may not be something wrong.
If it's simply an unsanded fly rod, there's nothing wrong with that. If it's a manufacturing flaw on the other hand, look for another rod.
Color is another way to tell if a used fly rod has any areas of concern. If there are any areas where the fly rod color or paint is inconsistent, this may be a sign a repair has been made.
Ferrules are the parts of a rod blank that connect to the next rod piece. A 4-piece fly rod will have 3 pairs of ferrules.
Each ferrule pair has one male end and one female end.
Ferrules can crack easily from too much pressure when you’re pushing two fly rod pieces together. If there’s a crack in the ferrule, the fly rod may break when put under the stress of catching a fish.
The cork grip on a fly rod is where your hand holds the rod.
The cork grip is typically epoxied to the rod blank.
Test to make sure the cork is holding absolutely rock solid to the rod with no movement whatsoever by trying to twist the cork off the rod blank.
Cork grips get dirty easily from the oils in the skin on your hand. Dirt is easily removed with either 1) a Magic Eraser or 2) 1000+ grit sandpaper (which is basically what a Magic Eraser is anyways).
Check to make sure the cork isn’t missing any large chunks of wood, or cracked, or dried out.
Corks are not easily repaired, if they can be at all. Corks can be patched with filler but it's not a great solution.
So if you’re at all concerned about the condition of the cork grip, pass on the purchase.
Stripping guides are the larger guides closest to the rod handle. There are typically at least two and as many as four stripping guides on a fly rod, depending on the fly rod length.
The inside of a stripping guide can be any number of materials. Modern rods typically have ceramic stripping guides.
In the photo above, the interior black ring is ceramic held in place by the exterior metal ring.
Stripping guides have two common problems.
First, stripping guides can get worn in. Look for groves in the stripping guides formed by thousands of casts and strips.
Second, stripping guides often get cracked, broken or otherwise damaged if the rod was fished in cold, rain or snow where ice formed on the stripping guide.
Running guides are the smaller metal guides the rest of the way down the rod. There are usually at least eight and up to sixteen running guides depending on the rod length.
The most common problem with running guides is they either get bent, broken, or the epoxy that’s holding them to the rod blank is failing.
Look down the line of the fly rod and across the fly rod to see that the guides are in alignment and perpendicular to the fly rod itself.
Give each running guide a very gentle push and twist to make sure each guide is still firmly attached to the fly rod.
You need to pay close attention to the feet of the guides where the epoxy holds each guide down. Looks for cracks or weaknesses in the epoxy.
The fly reel seat is the wood or composite component near the very end of the handle of a fly rod. The reel seat is where the fly reel gets seated to run the line through the guides.
The reel seat can be bent or cracked if the rod was set down, stepped on, or otherwise bent.
The fixed hood, sliding hood, and threaded rings that lock the reel in place should all move freely and be rust free.
The tip top of a fly rod is the very metal top of a fly rod. These are often the most frequently damaged part of a fly rod. You need to very carefully inspect the area around the tip-top for any spots where it looks like a repair has been made.
Make sure the tip top is not bent or scratched. If it’s scratched it can indicate that the rod was dragged on the ground or other surface.
The rod tube is the protecting case a fly rod comes in. Rod tubes are typically metal, graphite, or plastic.
Rod tubes are not a functional part of the fly rod but they're important to protecting the rod during travel.
The rod tube can be a good indicator for how much the fly rod has been used and how it was treated while being used.
In my experience, if the rod tube is beat up, has stickers all over it, is dented, scratched, or unoriginal there’s a good chance the fly rod has seen a lot of wear and tear.
The rod sleeve is the piece of cloth that protects your fly rod.
In the same regard as the rod tube, the rod sleeve is not a component of the fly rod, but it is important to protecting the fly rod.
If the rod sleeve is sold with the fly rod, that’s all you need. The condition of the sleeve is not important. As long as the cloth holds and protects the fly rod, it will serve it's purpose.
If the sleeve isn’t present with the fly rod, there are several places to buy one. But you should have a fly rod sleeve to protect your fly rod.
If everything looks fine, you still need to actually test the rod. Before we list used fly rods on Outfishers, we put them through a variety of tests using customized equipment.
But you can come close to simulating these tests. Here’s what you should do.
1. Assemble the fly rod pieces.
Fit the ferrules together and once the rod is fully assembled, hold the rod with each hand on a different section. Trying to tug them apart with a moderate amount of force. If the fly rod pieces come apart easily, it can be a sign that the ferrules are worn, damaged, or weren’t manufactured correctly to begin with.
2. Mount a reel to the reel seat.
The reel should fit easily into the fixed hood. The sliding hood should move freely. The threaded rings that lock the reel in place should move freely along the threads and firmly hold the reel in place.
3. Feed your fly line through the stripping and running guides.
Cast the line to various distances to check that the rod allows the line to accurately be casted. You don’t need a fly on the end or even a leader. If the guides aren’t aligned or the guides have worn groves, the line will take more effort to cast than it should and won’t travel well.
4. Lastly, simulate setting the hook by pulling hard on the end of the fly line.
The rod arc should flex to 90 degrees easily and to 135 degrees with moderate power. Most fly rods will flex far beyond the angles.
There are a lot of guides on the internet to walk you through buying a fly rod, but very few guides about buying a used fly rod specifically.
I’m sure this seems like a lot to cover just to buy something as simple as a used fly rod. After all, you can catch a fish with just a stick and a piece of string.
But think of it this way. You’re going to be spending hundreds of dollars on a fly rod that is not new and out of the box. You need to make sure you spend your money wisely.
Many of the challenges described here, we’ve solved through Outfishers. We give you 30-day returns, lifetime warranties, and a rating system that gives you all of the information you need to assess the rods condition.
But if you don’t find what you want on Outfishers, use this information as a guide to buying your used fly rod.
So, did I miss anything? In your experience, what other aspects of buying a used fly rod do you think are important?